Day 21. Tuesday 21 April.

Up early (for us) to get to the fish market by around 0800. Lots to choose from: whole fish, some shellfish, scampi, octopus and squid. We opted for some squid. Very impressed by the knife work in cutting out a chunk of the tuna!

Passed through the fresh food market, but baulked at the fresh asparagus at 5 Euros (about $9) a bunch, despite the vendor demonstrating freshness by snapping a stalk. Past the Roman ruins – the Forum.

 Decided to wander down to the sea organ again, assuming that this early there would be no noisy kids or tourist groups. We were right, but….

Back for breakfast then to retrace our steps for another try at the sea organ: by this time the tourist and school groups had arrived, but there were gaps where the background noise abated, and the wakes of a tug towing a barge and then a small cargo vessel overtaking them gave Bolero a bit of a run – but then subsided again without anything like a Bo Derek finale. The sea organ has four lots of ten pipes and does occasionally have a high note.

Further wandering brought us to the university via Spiridon Brusina, a Croatian zoologist with a special interest in the study of marine and fresh-water molluscs, the snails and shells of coastal Croatia – we were stopped at the door and politely and humorously told that we couldn’t enter as it’s a university.

Around a cute little bay, past the Land Gate and into a green space where the acanthus plantings look fabulous (envious, as ours in Fisher often look wilted by sunlight or snail-chewed).

Back into the old town walls, just meandering. Dropped into a Catholic church for a brief contemplation but not St. Simeon’s which was next door.

The museum was next but by now it was after 1400 and it closed at 1500, so that’s postponed.

 Past the Church of Saint Chrysogonus, to Konzum for some groceries, the fresh market for a lemon (not a whole bag) and a later thought, perhaps a leek at Studenac for tonight’s designer dinner.

This guy fancies his chances – we’re not so sure.

 Cook won’t need lessons. She has ‘designed’ something with calamari, leek,zucchini lemon, garlic & paprika on spaghetti (it will be the next best recipe on google). And a chunk of blue cheese!

Have decided on Plitvice Lakes for tomorrow (Wednesday) & forecast shows only 9 degrees/ shower!!! Bound to be a quiet day also for boat excursions & snorkelling.

Before the cook gets stove revved up, she has confirmed an accommodation in Zagreb for the weekend, leaving the Adriatic behind in favour of a ‘green’ environment’.  D has booked transport & advised T of departure timings…

Verdict on dinner offering? D says ‘alright’ but he really means ‘terrific’, agreeing with the cook.

Day 20. Monday 20 April.

The only leftovers were green: a handful of rocket, so the turtles should be happy.

None of the forecast showers, no pressure to leave by 1000 – although we were ready -so an easy departure with suitcases and down to the bus station for the next leg along the coast to Zadar. Even time for a takeaway coffee on the waterfront, observing with great amusement the unrequited love of the male pigeons. And some sympathy.

The coast road is a strip of urban apartments, small shops, lots of bakeries (pekara),   autokamps (empty, as it’s not yet the season. But would be perfect for Crans!), small olive gardens and stones. The water, nearby islands & boats are ever-present. Not much of a beach.

Nicotine is still fashionable for all ages and our bus driver was desperate as he pulled into Šibenik with fag poised, closing the doors so he could exit for that fix, much to the consternation of the baggage handler. He wasn’t the only one: a couple of passengers needed the same. Our bags were stowed (2.6 euros extra please) & we boarded, choosing seats on the driver’s side (for the best view).  At some point D wondered if we were in the right seats: were they actually allocated? Nobody else seemed to be concerned. When he checked, seats were in fact allocated, but as someone else was in ours…what the heck. A woman nearby started coughing & continued…D initially hoped it was a smoker’s cough, but suspected after sustained coughing that it was something else. Fingers crossed.

The route was not spectacular (T had hoped for amazing scenery).  And then we were at Zadar, a big concrete bus station and the taxi tout was onto us. There was no question of our walking the 2 kms to our abode so we took up his offer. We are in an unpretentious (ugly) building one street back from the waterfront and very near the footbridge across to the old town. The apartment is at ground level!!  And inside is beautifully new and appointed, just as  described.

A quick check on where the markets are showed a nearby fish market, so a short walk across the bridge to the market…a fish offering might be possible!  But it was all packed up… the last, lonely retailer offered us a ‘first class’ fresh thing that looked like a bream for 30 euros! He would clean & scale it…ah, no thanks. We’ll come back tomorrow. The market opens 6 maybe 7…we might make it around 8. So provisions happened at Konzum with a pork loin (5 euros), potatoes, zucchini…and D keeps ahead of the wine supply. We’re close to running out of black tea: Twinings English Breakfast is the only & very rare offering of black tea, although you can have any sort of herbal tea ever imagined.

In the late afternoon it was back to the waterfront. Dropped in by chance to the tourist office to be greeted by a huge smile and enthusiasm by an engaging young woman – somewhat surprisingly, that has not always been the case. We took her advice, following the marked map past the usual churches and cathedrals (there are 18 according to the old town tourist map) to arrive at the wave organ: the sea hitting the concrete quay produces the melodic sound…just a pity that a whinging child and general chatter interfere with a meditative albeit repetitive piece (D thought of  Bolero without the build up).

A slow walk back along the sea front, no crowds, marvelling at the big schools of fingerlings and the occasional bigger marauders. And then on to the ramparts before heading home, dropping in to the local Studenac supermarket to discover Twinings English Breakfast!! Bought two boxes.

Pork loin & roast veges worked a treat. Can’t navigate dishwasher, so it’s just as well D likes to get his hands soapy.

Day 19. Sunday 19 April.

Power off from 9 to 2, so cup of tea and breakfast (and showers) done promptly. ‘Let’s do just 10k steps today’ says T. Brigita had provided some links to things to do: for starters, we thought we’d first visit St. Michaels’s Fortress, followed by a boat ride to St. Nicholas’s Fortress.

People were starting to fill the street cafes and there were a few stalls along the promenade. T spotted some recycled clothing stalls where women were taking wares out of suitcases & hanging them on racks, hoping to attract who? T spoke to one woman who said she’d lived in South Africa, Germany, Belgium…( T lost track) & was now back at home base in Croatia. T asked her where she sourced the gear…’all over’ was the reply.Trade was very slow, but, as we know, ‘the season….’

While T was chatting, D ducked into the information office nearby and learnt  that the boat trips to St. Nicholas’ fortress do not start until 25 April. So on to St. James Cathedral which was en route to the Fortress – but no entry just yet, as Mass was in progress. However,There was some lovely music and singing happening.

The up -market/ marina part of town contrasts with our ‘working’ section. Of note in Šibenik is the amount of graffiti and street rubbish (including dog poop) not seen so far in any other place we’ve stayed in or visited in Croatia.

Plenty of churches and castle/ fortresses here as is the norm. In Šibenik, there are: St. James Cathedral, St. John’s Church, St. Francis’s Church and Monastery, St. Grisogoru’s Church, New Church, Church of the Holy Spirit, St. Nicholas’ Church, St. Barbara’s Church, St. Dominic’s Church, St. Gregory’s Church, St. Lawrence Church, All Saints Church, Ascension Church, Church of the Holy Cross, St. Nedilijica Church, St. Savior Church, Gospe Vanka Grada Church and St. Luce Benedictine Monastery. According to the 2021 Census, the city of Šibenik has a population of 42,599 inhabitants but obviously the city needed heavenly protection in its heyday (16th century).

At the fortress, a reminder of 25 April, just like last year in Spain.

A tour of the fortress doesn’t take too long as it’s pretty self contained. The main points if interest are the open-air auditorium, that seats 1077, and the historical displays, particularly on the salt industry. T wondered how the 1077 patrons access this venue…surely they don’t do the climb that we did, hundreds of steps from the ground/old town/marina level through narrow laneways…answer from the fortress staff…yes, that’s what they do. There is a small car parking drop-off point & a lift for the disabled, but basically it’s climb! The guide was surprised by the question, saying she’d never considered it before. And concerts are sell-outs.

The auditorium hosts some big gigs in the season of June to September: two we recognized were Wilco and Robert Plant…what if it rains? (never).

Interestingly, the salt industry was the economic basis of Šibenik in the 1500s to 1600s, brought to an end, inevitably, by war.   Conflicts were as usual between: Venetians, Ottomans, occasionally Greeks, (not to mention the 20th century wars).

Another good coffee – now expected in Croatia – at the garden of the church of St. Lawrence. And T considered some changes to our Fisher garden.

On coming down all those steps to St. James’ Cathedral again we were met by what appeared to be the end of a mass Christening – at least three babes in white: the little ones, that is –  and mothers, who were also in white. One had a fetching bow (or angel wings?) on the back of her dress: probably not wings, as she was sucking on her vape vigorously.

Gelatos on the street, then a quiet sit in a pleasant park before heading for ‘home’ and an early mark. Steps so far today: 8100, so we’ll make the 10k. On to Zadar tomorrow by  bus and weather forecast is showers. So far we haven’t had to drag our gear dodging raindrops. Dealing with stairs is quite enough. Our backpacks carry the bottles: oil & balsamic, spice bag: cumin, oregano, parsley, paprika, occasionally an unfinished wine –  T tries to have no extra foodstuff but tomorrow there will be a can of chickpeas in the rather full backpack or suitcase.

Day 18. Saturday 18 April.

A good night’s sleep and the start of a brilliant day. After house chores, off to Krka National Park, via a quick look at the local produce market where tomato seedlings were the go. Brigita plans to plant some today and will protect them from the turtles with a plastic guard. She feeds the turtles with vegetable scraps from her kitchen when the weather is dry: ‘they eat what we do’.

A short wait for our bus (a mini bus) ‘you will be told which bay five minutes before’ and we were wending our way on back roads to Skradin.

At the ticket office in Skradin we met a Bosnian lady (very elegant), who works in a hotel reception job in Šibenik, also buying entry tickets. We established agreed return bus timings. After working out our options and buying the entry ticket, there was a 20 minute boat ride into the park, included in the ticket cost – staff explained that once inside the park there were more boat expedition choices (with accompanying fees).

In fact at this time there were only two choices of boat tours above the main waterfall: two or four hours. Mindful of limited bus timings for our return trip, we opted to take the two-hour trip up to Visovac Island, where we would have half an hour to visit the Franciscan monastery museum and church. The boat ride starts about halfway around the boardwalk.

A coffee to prepare for the walking, shared by a new friend who was unperturbed by our company.

Before the Visovac boat there was a section of boardwalk, and steps of course, taking us above the series of main falls. Spectacular tufa, spectacular falls, spectacular clear green water. Interestingly, much of the boardwalk has no side rails and is quite narrow.

 It’s meant to be a one-way walking route, but is obviously not monitored as there were people coming from the ‘wrong’ direction: there’s a lot of rushing water and many small falls, so with crowds and prams and the occasional dog (yes they are allowed!) T wondered about accidents. And our new Bosnian friend had recommended that this was the way to avoid crowds!

Reaching the ‘cruise’ boat departure point, the crowd had seriously thinned and the trip to the island was peaceful.

Steep hills, waterways twisting & turning, little obvious wildlife and no other marine craft made for a gentle cruise and then the island came into view. We had discussed potential for bushfires in this environment and as we approached the island there was obvious signs of earlier fires. T asked a crew member, who said there had been fires a couple of years ago, controlled by aerial water bombing.

The Franciscans had certainly chosen prime real estate in a ‘get away from it all’ spot and over the centuries have created & maintained a marvellous garden and buildings and the stories of conflict between the Mediterranean societies are told & re-told.

In the museum, T found a couple of items of special interest.

The crew of the boat repeatedly sounded the horn to recall passengers – a group of about 6-8 failed to appear: how they could get lost on an island about the size of the MCG is astounding. Anyway, the boat left without them. Returning to the boardwalk, it was time to head for the exit (wherever that was)…the route meanders through a delta of streams & falls, and this part is particularly dangerous as the boardwalks are narrow, irregular and have no guard rails.

Eventually the end of the circuit was in sight and there was just enough time for a beer & fries before the packed boat ride back to Skradin – a few passengers weren’t allowed on. Then a bus ride back to Šibenik, after a nice chat with a couple of Phillipinos now working in Croatia after the Middle East.

A marvellous (tiring) day in a marvellous environment.

Day 17. Friday 17 April…a very warm 27 degrees.

Ferry to Split departed a little bit later than the programmed 1015, getting us there with just five minutes to spare to catch the bus to Šibenik, but docking right opposite the bus station.

We were a bit surprised, having bought our tickets at the booking office, to then be charged at the bus for handling our two suitcases. Whatever.

The hour and a half journey was pleasant, calling in at towns on the way, and even the occasional lonely bus stop. The coastal strip is a continuous string of villages/resorts/ apartments and boats. The walk to our apartment was only five minutes, but, of course, included a good length of steps! Apple Maps obliged to get us there, to be met by Brigita, who provided us with a very comprehensive introduction, welcome treats, including to the five resident turtles. The apartment is one of 3 in a very old block; she, her husband & elderly father live above. T may well be challenged by others’ proximity – and there is a barking dog.

Brigita recommended an evening walk along the waterfront to view Šibenik as the sun set. A few cafes and bars were busy, but none filled up – pre- season here too. Noted the price of fuel here: 1.85 euros corresponds to $3 for premium diesel, and 1.66 euros to $2.77 for 95 octane petrol. There is certainly no sign of fuel panic here.

As promised, the view back across the water to the medieval city was pretty spectacular.

On the way back chanced across a wedding at St James Cathedral – lots of very loud and enthusiastic singing and some dancing, plus lots of full-on glamour.

Three of the turtles are tucked up for the night. We won’t be far behind them.

Day 16. Thursday 16 April.

Bus trip to Stari Grad, which we’d passed through several times on a previous bus journey. Before boarding D came across some fish for sale.

Stari Grad is another boaties town like Hvar and Vrboska and to us is probably the pick of the three. But it is very, very old – the oldest town in Croatia,  (originally Pharos, circa 384 BC) and archaeological digs are still happening. It was quiet, as we’d expected, and had a nice ‘vibe’. There is a major ferry port connected to the town but it is some distance away around the corner & in another inlet.

We had the best coffee yet & then just strolled down one side of the harbour, in & out of alleyways, noting about 6 churches, a castle, and a canal running through town, with plenty of fish. The poet/philosopher/polymath, Petar Hektorovic is the singular hero.  Plenty of expensive boats and plenty of working ones. And more fish for sale.

Then headed to the bus stop for the return journey at 1215.

But D had misread the return timetable and there was no 1215 bus: the next was 1430. So we found some pre packed rolls for lunch in the supermarket ‘Tommy’ and strolled down the other side of the harbour. At the checkout a jovial local (we think the store owner) engaged us, picking that we were from Australia because of D’s hat. Not for the first time we had to point out that the hat was made in Italy and bought in Spain!

T found some Agave americana so broke off a piece of leaf to explore her inner nun. Probably not Benedictine.

One thing in particular struck us: the number of churches of various sorts. As you do, we looked to enter, but all were closed up, so we adapted.  A few were under renovation.

There was significant archaeological digging at the Church of St. John – including a discovery that may show the origins of football.

At a stall, a butcher was selling jamon/prosciutto and other smallgoods: T had a taster and he had a sale. He explained with a few words that the fabulous flavour was due to ‘salt and the north wind.’

Arrived back at the bus stop in good order, just relaxing and watching school buses arrive to disgorge kids or to pick them up. As one bus left just after 1400 a woman rushed over, waving her walking stick frantically, yelling for it to stop. She thought it was the bus to Hvar, that she had missed it and was not happy and took some convincing that it wasn’t. She and her much more relaxed husband are from Brazil, just over to Hvar from Split today on a day trip. She was very animated and had much conversation with T, while the two blokes only occasionally contributed. The husband was almost apologetic, saying his wife was ‘anxious’ but she was rich, ‘bloody rich’…a bit crazy ….then she returned with ‘he drives me crazy’. There were some obvious private jokes. Her outburst about the bus evaporated & there was plenty of humour as she said that she actually found Croatia too quiet, there was nothing to buy, the pizzas were awful,  there was too much pasta and she hated pasta (despite having an Italian father)  & she much preferred Italy!  When D commented on wonderful Italian wine, she said she couldn’t drink wine or alcohol generally, due to some stomach issue, but French wine was ok!

A little namesake on the way home.

We’d been promising ourselves a swim in the Adriatic Sea, to add to our list of oceans and seas we’ve swum in. Today we did it, (the afternoon got to 22 degrees) and despite appearances, the water was not freezing – quite pleasant in fact.

Tomorrow the ferry to Split, then bus to Šibenik. But first, a feast.

Time to relax and enjoy

Day 15. Wednesday 15 April.

A little anecdote from yesterday. We had looked into a ‘dress’ shop two days ago, admiring a vibrant red dress. It had gone, replaced by a coat (the weather had changed). The shop keeper was having a smoke and a coffee opposite with a mate – recognised us, got up, sank back into her chair…

Alarms set for an early ferry ride to Split – which meant, as usual, that neither of us slept much! We need to accept paying a much higher price for travelling later in the mornings rather than having sleepless nights waiting for alarms might be worth it. But then we’d have less time at destination….

Ferry ride was calm and on arrival D’s first task (logistics star) was to check out the bus station for our ongoing trip on Friday, (ferry to Split then bus to Šibenik). All sorted.

First visit was to the Dominican Church and Monastery of St. Catherine of Alexandria. Some interesting modern renditions of the Stations of the Cross.

Split old town is basically the Diocletian Palace, a mix of ancient and very, very ancient STONE: walls, columns, arches, cornices, architraves, some impressive statues, …mostly on fairly flat ground.

Highlights were the Vestibule and the ceiling in the Baptistry (originally the temple to Pluto). We got free entry here when T said, ‘we don’t have a ticket…& it’s his (D’s) birthday’.

 We inevitably encountered tour groups, but there was no real crush, although you certainly didn’t get in their way! The Yellow walking tour lady in the Peristyle (interior courtyard) was trying hard to get customers, seemingly unsuccessfully.

The mix of eateries & bars  is interesting: you can have coffee but no food, pastries but no coffee…We settled on a sweet custard pastry from a bakery after a coffee (finally,  getting  brown sugar), then later for lunch it was a couple of tasty filled rolls. Within the narrow alleyways, fashion, shoe & souvenir shops were open. And a first: a FISH MARKET!

And a couple of oddities…

And two more…

The Art Gallery had a couple of eye-catching exhibitions, but the Little gallery of Split City Museum had a free display of the works of two artists, Karin Grenc and Ana Marija Botteri, titled Ecce Homo, which focused on the pain of Christ and the common man. The young man attending this exhibition confessed to knowing nothing about art; he was a ‘student just minding the shop.’ We suggested that he make up a story about the artworks: the pain of Christ, the common man & then he added, ‘& the two artists’.

The Art Gallery…

Little gallery of Split City Museum

We abandoned the idea of a hop on & off bus, returning early to the port for a relaxing before the 1600 ferry home – notwithstanding that the directions given with our ticket sent us to the wrong wharf, which we fortunately twigged to.

Another tiring day – well over 12k steps again, and lots of those were up and down steps!

Dinner preparation of a Mediterranean style seafood pasta dish had started the previous night. Delicious.

Day 14. Tuesday 14 April.

Some light rain overnight and the day is light grey and a bit cool and windy – but comfortable enough to venture out.

Focus this morning is the Benedictine convent, established in 1664, where nuns make lace out of fibre drawn from fresh Agave americana leaves, usually designed without a pattern.

A group tour was just ahead of us to enter the museum so we latched on – fortunately they passed in and out quite quickly.

The lace making is recognised by UNESCO as a cultural tradition originating in the 19th century. We did not actually see any nuns extracting the white, thin fibres. Because of the intense labor involved, each small unique piece takes months to create. Several pieces for sale were priced at 5,000 euros (if we interpreted correctly). Talking to a very helpful lady in the Tourist office later we learned that there are now about nine nuns in the convent, with only three of them still creating lace – one reluctantly and only because she doesn’t’t want the skill to die out. T was in awe of the delicate crochet/embroidery. Many pieces are for liturgical use (apparently some go to the Vatican) but some are embellishments on garments. It was a real pity that there was no information about how the agave thread is produced and the girl in the tourist office said ‘it’s kept a secret!’ T asked how old the artist/nuns are…women in their 60s (so quite young, really) and women enter the order in their late 30s & presumably have a talent for needlework as a start point & the patience to learn & master (mistress) the craft.

The town is quieter today due to damp conditions: more work being done on preparing for the coming season, and most of the cafes, bars and stalls that were active over the weekend not open: none of the lavender sellers on the waterfront were, the sole trader being for beads and jewellery. But coffee was still available at a café/bar where the locals gathered. T was intrigued by the clear drink in front of most of them: the waitress informed us it was a common drink of white wine and water. Would you like to try? T declined & stuck to coffee. A rare treat was in finding sachets of raw sugar.

Searching for a seafood restaurant, we visited two recommended by the lady in the tourist office: the first, Junior, provided the sort of menu and price we were looking for; the prices of Gariful, the second, had us gulping – we won’t be dining there! Wandered along the waterfront some more and noticed a Tommy supermarket, a chain we’d seen yesterday in Stari Grad but not previously here. It was about the same size of the Konzum market we’d been visiting but had a few different items: T remarked that we could now make our own seafood meal just as tasty as the restaurant would serve up. The seafood at this time is frozen anyway, so decision for D’s birthday meal was made when we spotted it in the freezer cabinet. And T’s eyes lit up when she saw, and bought, big bunches of beautiful spinach on special. No prizes for guessing the next 3 nights’ meals (breakfasts). D’s iron levels will go through the roof!

A pre-dinner walk to check out other parts of Hvar ended when the footpaths ended: not keen to share narrow roads with cars and scooters. As we approached Konzum a young man was edging his small car past a parking boom gate. ‘I’m a tourist….the boom was up when I went in then came down!’ We assisted with some hand signals and he escaped. Another lesson about the value of small cars in busy cities with narrow  streets. And then we met and mutually recognised, the young lady from the Theatre a few days ago buying pet food in the pharmacy, for two cats and a dog.

T delights in preparing innovative meals while we’re travelling. Another success tonight, marrying meatballs, spinach, paprika and lots of other ingredients into an interesting and delicious dinner…and breakfast…and dinner. With spinach left over. The Mediterranean diet is very much her thing.

The swallows again chase their dinner as the moon rises over Hvar.

Day 13. Monday 13 April.

Caught the 0945 bus to Vrboska, about 23 km from Hvar Grad. Route took us to Stari Grad, then to the car ferry terminal, then back to Stari town, on to Jelsa, then our destination: arrived after 1100. There were a few roads taken that weren’t on the direct route: perhaps they were special pick up points. The route showed us fields of olives & vines & veges & dry STONE WALLS (UNESCO cultural heritage).

The bus stopped on the edge of town which is a small fishing/ boating (very expensive) port & the driver pointed the way to the certainly …we were seriously in need of breakfast. But – nothing open except a bar/café that didn’t serve food. We know the drill…the season hasn’t opened, workers are still getting ready by cleaning & polishing furniture.  Studenac came to the rescue with various small croissants, feta and spinach sticks, and a banana. Consumed this gastronomic delight on some alley steps out of the wind.

 Neighbourhood watch lady poked her head out of a door, wished us ‘bon appetit!’ then withdrew back inside. Coffee was good and a table of men next to us who were on to beers was chirpy. Every café depicts octopus…T could only dream!

Tourist office was open and was able to inform us that pretty much everything was still closed because it was pre-season, including the flash fishing museum.  We had noticed, but the good news was we could visit the outside of two main churches, although they weren’t open. So we did.

The first was St. Lawrence’s Church, and right next door was a lovely vegetable patch ready for the growing season.

We were able to peer inside this church.

About 100 metres further along was the Fortress Church of St. Mary of Mercy.

Walked along the waterway, where there were maintenance jobs being undertaken on very big, expensive vessels. Not at all pleasant, as there was a strong, cold wind blowing off the sea.

On the return leg, we stepped INSIDE a tiny chapel at the marina; maybe for supplications or thanks for a good catch.

Meandered back along the canal, crossing the small stone bridges, not quite Venice but so comfortable in this pre-season. More small vegetable patches have been prepared, contained by dry stone walls. The chirpy men hadn’t moved on…presume they were up to date with boat jobs.

Our return bus was 1400, so back to the bus stop to wait – bus arrived early, and departed before the due time, but there didn’t seem to be any folk running after it.

Trip back was reverse of the early one, but a lot quicker – didn’t even stop at the ferry terminal even though a ferry was approaching. Road rules were apparently not mandatory: no need to actually stop at Stop signs, speed limits were for guidance only, and perfectly fine to drive one- handed while talking on your mobile. D put on his seat belt.

Overall, a nice day’s adventure.

At Konzum, onion & beef mince sourced for tonight’s bolognaise. D gets his meat.