Day 19. Sunday 19 April.

Power off from 9 to 2, so cup of tea and breakfast (and showers) done promptly. ‘Let’s do just 10k steps today’ says T. Brigita had provided some links to things to do: for starters, we thought we’d first visit St. Michaels’s Fortress, followed by a boat ride to St. Nicholas’s Fortress.

People were starting to fill the street cafes and there were a few stalls along the promenade. T spotted some recycled clothing stalls where women were taking wares out of suitcases & hanging them on racks, hoping to attract who? T spoke to one woman who said she’d lived in South Africa, Germany, Belgium…( T lost track) & was now back at home base in Croatia. T asked her where she sourced the gear…’all over’ was the reply.Trade was very slow, but, as we know, ‘the season….’

While T was chatting, D ducked into the information office nearby and learnt  that the boat trips to St. Nicholas’ fortress do not start until 25 April. So on to St. James Cathedral which was en route to the Fortress – but no entry just yet, as Mass was in progress. However,There was some lovely music and singing happening.

The up -market/ marina part of town contrasts with our ‘working’ section. Of note in Šibenik is the amount of graffiti and street rubbish (including dog poop) not seen so far in any other place we’ve stayed in or visited in Croatia.

Plenty of churches and castle/ fortresses here as is the norm. In Šibenik, there are: St. James Cathedral, St. John’s Church, St. Francis’s Church and Monastery, St. Grisogoru’s Church, New Church, Church of the Holy Spirit, St. Nicholas’ Church, St. Barbara’s Church, St. Dominic’s Church, St. Gregory’s Church, St. Lawrence Church, All Saints Church, Ascension Church, Church of the Holy Cross, St. Nedilijica Church, St. Savior Church, Gospe Vanka Grada Church and St. Luce Benedictine Monastery. According to the 2021 Census, the city of Šibenik has a population of 42,599 inhabitants but obviously the city needed heavenly protection in its heyday (16th century).

At the fortress, a reminder of 25 April, just like last year in Spain.

A tour of the fortress doesn’t take too long as it’s pretty self contained. The main points if interest are the open-air auditorium, that seats 1077, and the historical displays, particularly on the salt industry. T wondered how the 1077 patrons access this venue…surely they don’t do the climb that we did, hundreds of steps from the ground/old town/marina level through narrow laneways…answer from the fortress staff…yes, that’s what they do. There is a small car parking drop-off point & a lift for the disabled, but basically it’s climb! The guide was surprised by the question, saying she’d never considered it before. And concerts are sell-outs.

The auditorium hosts some big gigs in the season of June to September: two we recognized were Wilco and Robert Plant…what if it rains? (never).

Interestingly, the salt industry was the economic basis of Šibenik in the 1500s to 1600s, brought to an end, inevitably, by war.   Conflicts were as usual between: Venetians, Ottomans, occasionally Greeks, (not to mention the 20th century wars).

Another good coffee – now expected in Croatia – at the garden of the church of St. Lawrence. And T considered some changes to our Fisher garden.

On coming down all those steps to St. James’ Cathedral again we were met by what appeared to be the end of a mass Christening – at least three babes in white: the little ones, that is –  and mothers, who were also in white. One had a fetching bow (or angel wings?) on the back of her dress: probably not wings, as she was sucking on her vape vigorously.

Gelatos on the street, then a quiet sit in a pleasant park before heading for ‘home’ and an early mark. Steps so far today: 8100, so we’ll make the 10k. On to Zadar tomorrow by  bus and weather forecast is showers. So far we haven’t had to drag our gear dodging raindrops. Dealing with stairs is quite enough. Our backpacks carry the bottles: oil & balsamic, spice bag: cumin, oregano, parsley, paprika, occasionally an unfinished wine –  T tries to have no extra foodstuff but tomorrow there will be a can of chickpeas in the rather full backpack or suitcase.