Day 24. Friday 24 April.

An addendum to yesterday. To fill a little pre-dinner space we took an evening stroll into the old town to look at the II Palaces: the Rector’s Palace (which had been rebuilt after serious damage in the 1991 conflict) and the Providur’s Palace. They are exhibition & concert venues now.

Then on to the Bell Tower next to St. Donatus’ Church. It was still open, despite twilight approaching so up we went …many flights of stairs to a panoramic view of the city at sunset with a very stiff breeze.

Now the day starts. Such punctuality! Booking was for 0855 & sure enough there it was…Uber to bus station, short wait, fight our way on to the bus without being trampled, toss out a man sitting in our allocated seat, and on the way on time. Interesting how the ‘rules’ are approached…have a crack at what you want to do & deal with any challenge seems to be the go. Almost four hours, with a 15-minute break somewhere after halfway. Fairly comfortable trip – the driver seemed to have both hands on the steering wheel most of the time! When it comes to bathroom rules, it might be different. The bus took a 15-minute break at a servo/café & the queue to get to the toilet was long. T saw that a ‘disabled’ cubicle was available & looking around, could not see anyone needing it, so tapped on the shoulder of the woman in front of her, asked the obvious question in gesture language, checked with the woman behind with the same gesture & then broke ranks to use it. The chatter was instant…it’s for ‘invalided’…& on exit, there was a brief scowl from the toilet monitor. Seriously?

Arrived into Zagreb, and tried to get an Uber to our apartment: app refused to play so we decided to walk the 1.6 kms, all fairly flat and just a few stairs to negotiate on arrival. Entry was easy. The little apartment is in a ‘newish’ part of town, with a tiny balcony & teeny tiny kitchen.

Evening stroll into the city with no destination in mind. Great danger from cyclists and scooter riders zooming past – had two near misses. Parts of the town look tired, other parts alive. Lots of folk out enjoying a mild evening with drinks & snacks or just waiting for the tram.The tram network snakes all over and it’s not clear where one should cross the street but we got home safely, cooked salmon tail & potatoes in the teeny tiny kitchen, washed up in same & will face a new day tomorrow (ANZAC Day).

Day 24. Thursday 24 April.

T has been reading a rather trashy novel set in Paris about a bakery and the regular references to preserves going onto bread & pastries has inspired a new thought… turn the half-punnet of strawberries into a kind of preserve to accompany the leftover piece of pork loin from Monday night. It’s a challenge to use all fresh supplies before moving on. So, the strawberries were sautéed with some balsamic & a pinch of paprika. We’ll need a final shop for a potato & a small tub of yogurt for Friday brekky. T announces that today’s breakfast will be a café treat.

A small spot in the sun was needed, out of a very fresh breeze. Found just the ticket & ordered coffees to start. Then when a woman arrived at the next table& ordered a rather complicated coffee, T struck up a conversation. Her accent was a bit ‘South African’ but she was an Aussie from Sydney & we talked with some embarrassment about our shared pedantic approaches to coffee. And yes, she was originally from South Africa.

Somewhat distracted by conversation, T ordered the Dalmatian breakfast for two: tuna pate, shrimp, aragula, eggs, tomatoes, toast. What wasn’t mentioned was that the eggs were fried and there were three each – and when the plates arrived, to T’s dismay she had forgotten to ask for no eggs. D was faced with a choice!

Conversation flowed – travels, places, Cape Town (add to bucket list), Croatian bus drivers, her brother the famous cartoonist…..On researching later, we concluded that her brother was probably Jonathon Shapiro nicknamed Zapiro. She was travelling alone with no itinerary, a 6-week break from a stressful Sydney job…her Chinese husband is at home. No names exchanged, but laughs and travel tips…She agreed with our comments about bus drivers, and had registered a complaint!

T walked, D pecked and scratched his way, over to the museum, T worrying that at any moment he might start ‘clucking’. The displays on three floors traced the history of this region, from the first days of human occupation until basically the Roman occupation. It was simple but comprehensive: too much to take in fully but a terrific background and so much of the Roman Empire cultural practices are with us still.

From there, over to St. Donatus church, which has been stripped of most of its internal fittings etc, which are on display or storage at the museum, for further renovation.

The church was built in 9th century on the old Roman forum, ceased being a church at the end of 18th century and was stripped of altars, fittings and religious paraphernalia…and during archaeological work, the floor has been removed to reveal the Roman foundations. It was marvellous to be in ‘a church stripped bare’.

Much of the stripped items are held in the archaeology museum next door. The forum, the church & museum make a terrific trio.

Afterwards, we had a fascinating talk with the young lady at the entry, initially about the church then about the war in the 1990s. She was very animated: her father had been involved, and family property damaged, including her grandmother’s house, destroying all memories. She said her grandmother had died before she was born, but as there were no photos left, she had no idea what she looked like. She mentioned that Zadar had been hit hard and there was lingering resentment – as we parted company, D& T wondering whether there was any truth about her optimism that ‘things are ok now, with the young people’ in the Balkans.

Back to the sea organ. The Adriatic had been whipped up by a strong wind, so the music was much louder, but still no Bo. D hasn’t laid that egg yet but T wonders if he needs any more protein tonight…maybe he can just go with greens & the strawberry- surprise! The answer is ‘No’.

Day 22. Wednesday 22 April.

Plitvice Lakes today and forecast is COLD.

A 0830 bus means an early start, which in turn usually means a restless night. We are at least consistent.

Arrived at the bus station at 0730 – D had, of course, arranged an early Uber, and the Uber driver was early. Bus loaded and departed on time.

The driver mostly drove one handed, occasionally no hands, but never two hands. He manipulated his mobile while driving, having a first conversation continuously for about an hour, the second for about half an hour, and four smaller ones. However, we arrived safely and the thermometer sat on 7. T was surprised that there were so many visitors already, tour groups and student groups and a trio of sweet young things had clearly not previewed the weather forecast, arriving in shorts & singlet tops, then gasping at the cold.

Coffee, entry, and then the park spoke for itself. Plitvice Lakes is the oldest and largest national park in Croatia, situated in the mountainous region of Croatia, between the Mala Kapela mountain range in the west and northwest, and the Lička Plješivica mountain range to the southeast.

The park is primarily covered in beech forest vegetation, with smaller areas under grasslands. The most attractive part of the park – the lakes – cover just under 1% of the total park area.

The lake system is comprised of 16 named and several smaller unnamed lakes, cascading one into the next. It is impossible to do the whole complex justice in a few photos! As with Krka National Park, the boardwalks were narrow, mostly without rails and in this case the rushing, gushing, icy water splashes up & onto the timber path. Not sure how parents manage their little ones & would hate to deal with summertime visitor numbers. And it was a bit disconcerting having people walking in the opposite direction! The boardwalk timbers were of different and irregular widths, so T was extra cautious. It was ‘surround sound’ & visually jaw-dropping.

Met up with an Aussie couple from Mollymook – Sue and Greg – both retired school teachers, and shared some part of the way, after agreeing on the correct route. Their son is teaching music at Deakin High (but we didn’t get to surnames). They are also independent travellers, but with an arranged itinerary.

A beer at the end was a perfect end, then to the bus. Same driver, same situation. Alighting the bus D booked an Uber to get back to the apartment, and we were picked up by Ivana, an engaging and industrious young woman. We got the full story – divorced, two kids (12 & 5), kindergarten teacher with three other jobs to make ends meet! She was a new uber driver (one week in) & had come to this new part-time job after previously child-minding (too much like her kindergarten stuff) & apartment-cleaning (causing back and shoulder problems). It’s a 7-day week working lifestyle, as costs are steep but she was optimistic…’this brings positive energy’ & she certainly had it in spades. T felt very humble.

Day 21. Tuesday 21 April.

Up early (for us) to get to the fish market by around 0800. Lots to choose from: whole fish, some shellfish, scampi, octopus and squid. We opted for some squid. Very impressed by the knife work in cutting out a chunk of the tuna!

Passed through the fresh food market, but baulked at the fresh asparagus at 5 Euros (about $9) a bunch, despite the vendor demonstrating freshness by snapping a stalk. Past the Roman ruins – the Forum.

 Decided to wander down to the sea organ again, assuming that this early there would be no noisy kids or tourist groups. We were right, but….

Back for breakfast then to retrace our steps for another try at the sea organ: by this time the tourist and school groups had arrived, but there were gaps where the background noise abated, and the wakes of a tug towing a barge and then a small cargo vessel overtaking them gave Bolero a bit of a run – but then subsided again without anything like a Bo Derek finale. The sea organ has four lots of ten pipes and does occasionally have a high note.

Further wandering brought us to the university via Spiridon Brusina, a Croatian zoologist with a special interest in the study of marine and fresh-water molluscs, the snails and shells of coastal Croatia – we were stopped at the door and politely and humorously told that we couldn’t enter as it’s a university.

Around a cute little bay, past the Land Gate and into a green space where the acanthus plantings look fabulous (envious, as ours in Fisher often look wilted by sunlight or snail-chewed).

Back into the old town walls, just meandering. Dropped into a Catholic church for a brief contemplation but not St. Simeon’s which was next door.

The museum was next but by now it was after 1400 and it closed at 1500, so that’s postponed.

 Past the Church of Saint Chrysogonus, to Konzum for some groceries, the fresh market for a lemon (not a whole bag) and a later thought, perhaps a leek at Studenac for tonight’s designer dinner.

This guy fancies his chances – we’re not so sure.

 Cook won’t need lessons. She has ‘designed’ something with calamari, leek,zucchini lemon, garlic & paprika on spaghetti (it will be the next best recipe on google). And a chunk of blue cheese!

Have decided on Plitvice Lakes for tomorrow (Wednesday) & forecast shows only 9 degrees/ shower!!! Bound to be a quiet day also for boat excursions & snorkelling.

Before the cook gets stove revved up, she has confirmed an accommodation in Zagreb for the weekend, leaving the Adriatic behind in favour of a ‘green’ environment’.  D has booked transport & advised T of departure timings…

Verdict on dinner offering? D says ‘alright’ but he really means ‘terrific’, agreeing with the cook.

Day 20. Monday 20 April.

The only leftovers were green: a handful of rocket, so the turtles should be happy.

None of the forecast showers, no pressure to leave by 1000 – although we were ready -so an easy departure with suitcases and down to the bus station for the next leg along the coast to Zadar. Even time for a takeaway coffee on the waterfront, observing with great amusement the unrequited love of the male pigeons. And some sympathy.

The coast road is a strip of urban apartments, small shops, lots of bakeries (pekara),   autokamps (empty, as it’s not yet the season. But would be perfect for Crans!), small olive gardens and stones. The water, nearby islands & boats are ever-present. Not much of a beach.

Nicotine is still fashionable for all ages and our bus driver was desperate as he pulled into Šibenik with fag poised, closing the doors so he could exit for that fix, much to the consternation of the baggage handler. He wasn’t the only one: a couple of passengers needed the same. Our bags were stowed (2.6 euros extra please) & we boarded, choosing seats on the driver’s side (for the best view).  At some point D wondered if we were in the right seats: were they actually allocated? Nobody else seemed to be concerned. When he checked, seats were in fact allocated, but as someone else was in ours…what the heck. A woman nearby started coughing & continued…D initially hoped it was a smoker’s cough, but suspected after sustained coughing that it was something else. Fingers crossed.

The route was not spectacular (T had hoped for amazing scenery).  And then we were at Zadar, a big concrete bus station and the taxi tout was onto us. There was no question of our walking the 2 kms to our abode so we took up his offer. We are in an unpretentious (ugly) building one street back from the waterfront and very near the footbridge across to the old town. The apartment is at ground level!!  And inside is beautifully new and appointed, just as  described.

A quick check on where the markets are showed a nearby fish market, so a short walk across the bridge to the market…a fish offering might be possible!  But it was all packed up… the last, lonely retailer offered us a ‘first class’ fresh thing that looked like a bream for 30 euros! He would clean & scale it…ah, no thanks. We’ll come back tomorrow. The market opens 6 maybe 7…we might make it around 8. So provisions happened at Konzum with a pork loin (5 euros), potatoes, zucchini…and D keeps ahead of the wine supply. We’re close to running out of black tea: Twinings English Breakfast is the only & very rare offering of black tea, although you can have any sort of herbal tea ever imagined.

In the late afternoon it was back to the waterfront. Dropped in by chance to the tourist office to be greeted by a huge smile and enthusiasm by an engaging young woman – somewhat surprisingly, that has not always been the case. We took her advice, following the marked map past the usual churches and cathedrals (there are 18 according to the old town tourist map) to arrive at the wave organ: the sea hitting the concrete quay produces the melodic sound…just a pity that a whinging child and general chatter interfere with a meditative albeit repetitive piece (D thought of  Bolero without the build up).

A slow walk back along the sea front, no crowds, marvelling at the big schools of fingerlings and the occasional bigger marauders. And then on to the ramparts before heading home, dropping in to the local Studenac supermarket to discover Twinings English Breakfast!! Bought two boxes.

Pork loin & roast veges worked a treat. Can’t navigate dishwasher, so it’s just as well D likes to get his hands soapy.

Day 19. Sunday 19 April.

Power off from 9 to 2, so cup of tea and breakfast (and showers) done promptly. ‘Let’s do just 10k steps today’ says T. Brigita had provided some links to things to do: for starters, we thought we’d first visit St. Michaels’s Fortress, followed by a boat ride to St. Nicholas’s Fortress.

People were starting to fill the street cafes and there were a few stalls along the promenade. T spotted some recycled clothing stalls where women were taking wares out of suitcases & hanging them on racks, hoping to attract who? T spoke to one woman who said she’d lived in South Africa, Germany, Belgium…( T lost track) & was now back at home base in Croatia. T asked her where she sourced the gear…’all over’ was the reply.Trade was very slow, but, as we know, ‘the season….’

While T was chatting, D ducked into the information office nearby and learnt  that the boat trips to St. Nicholas’ fortress do not start until 25 April. So on to St. James Cathedral which was en route to the Fortress – but no entry just yet, as Mass was in progress. However,There was some lovely music and singing happening.

The up -market/ marina part of town contrasts with our ‘working’ section. Of note in Šibenik is the amount of graffiti and street rubbish (including dog poop) not seen so far in any other place we’ve stayed in or visited in Croatia.

Plenty of churches and castle/ fortresses here as is the norm. In Šibenik, there are: St. James Cathedral, St. John’s Church, St. Francis’s Church and Monastery, St. Grisogoru’s Church, New Church, Church of the Holy Spirit, St. Nicholas’ Church, St. Barbara’s Church, St. Dominic’s Church, St. Gregory’s Church, St. Lawrence Church, All Saints Church, Ascension Church, Church of the Holy Cross, St. Nedilijica Church, St. Savior Church, Gospe Vanka Grada Church and St. Luce Benedictine Monastery. According to the 2021 Census, the city of Šibenik has a population of 42,599 inhabitants but obviously the city needed heavenly protection in its heyday (16th century).

At the fortress, a reminder of 25 April, just like last year in Spain.

A tour of the fortress doesn’t take too long as it’s pretty self contained. The main points if interest are the open-air auditorium, that seats 1077, and the historical displays, particularly on the salt industry. T wondered how the 1077 patrons access this venue…surely they don’t do the climb that we did, hundreds of steps from the ground/old town/marina level through narrow laneways…answer from the fortress staff…yes, that’s what they do. There is a small car parking drop-off point & a lift for the disabled, but basically it’s climb! The guide was surprised by the question, saying she’d never considered it before. And concerts are sell-outs.

The auditorium hosts some big gigs in the season of June to September: two we recognized were Wilco and Robert Plant…what if it rains? (never).

Interestingly, the salt industry was the economic basis of Šibenik in the 1500s to 1600s, brought to an end, inevitably, by war.   Conflicts were as usual between: Venetians, Ottomans, occasionally Greeks, (not to mention the 20th century wars).

Another good coffee – now expected in Croatia – at the garden of the church of St. Lawrence. And T considered some changes to our Fisher garden.

On coming down all those steps to St. James’ Cathedral again we were met by what appeared to be the end of a mass Christening – at least three babes in white: the little ones, that is –  and mothers, who were also in white. One had a fetching bow (or angel wings?) on the back of her dress: probably not wings, as she was sucking on her vape vigorously.

Gelatos on the street, then a quiet sit in a pleasant park before heading for ‘home’ and an early mark. Steps so far today: 8100, so we’ll make the 10k. On to Zadar tomorrow by  bus and weather forecast is showers. So far we haven’t had to drag our gear dodging raindrops. Dealing with stairs is quite enough. Our backpacks carry the bottles: oil & balsamic, spice bag: cumin, oregano, parsley, paprika, occasionally an unfinished wine –  T tries to have no extra foodstuff but tomorrow there will be a can of chickpeas in the rather full backpack or suitcase.

Day 18. Saturday 18 April.

A good night’s sleep and the start of a brilliant day. After house chores, off to Krka National Park, via a quick look at the local produce market where tomato seedlings were the go. Brigita plans to plant some today and will protect them from the turtles with a plastic guard. She feeds the turtles with vegetable scraps from her kitchen when the weather is dry: ‘they eat what we do’.

A short wait for our bus (a mini bus) ‘you will be told which bay five minutes before’ and we were wending our way on back roads to Skradin.

At the ticket office in Skradin we met a Bosnian lady (very elegant), who works in a hotel reception job in Šibenik, also buying entry tickets. We established agreed return bus timings. After working out our options and buying the entry ticket, there was a 20 minute boat ride into the park, included in the ticket cost – staff explained that once inside the park there were more boat expedition choices (with accompanying fees).

In fact at this time there were only two choices of boat tours above the main waterfall: two or four hours. Mindful of limited bus timings for our return trip, we opted to take the two-hour trip up to Visovac Island, where we would have half an hour to visit the Franciscan monastery museum and church. The boat ride starts about halfway around the boardwalk.

A coffee to prepare for the walking, shared by a new friend who was unperturbed by our company.

Before the Visovac boat there was a section of boardwalk, and steps of course, taking us above the series of main falls. Spectacular tufa, spectacular falls, spectacular clear green water. Interestingly, much of the boardwalk has no side rails and is quite narrow.

 It’s meant to be a one-way walking route, but is obviously not monitored as there were people coming from the ‘wrong’ direction: there’s a lot of rushing water and many small falls, so with crowds and prams and the occasional dog (yes they are allowed!) T wondered about accidents. And our new Bosnian friend had recommended that this was the way to avoid crowds!

Reaching the ‘cruise’ boat departure point, the crowd had seriously thinned and the trip to the island was peaceful.

Steep hills, waterways twisting & turning, little obvious wildlife and no other marine craft made for a gentle cruise and then the island came into view. We had discussed potential for bushfires in this environment and as we approached the island there was obvious signs of earlier fires. T asked a crew member, who said there had been fires a couple of years ago, controlled by aerial water bombing.

The Franciscans had certainly chosen prime real estate in a ‘get away from it all’ spot and over the centuries have created & maintained a marvellous garden and buildings and the stories of conflict between the Mediterranean societies are told & re-told.

In the museum, T found a couple of items of special interest.

The crew of the boat repeatedly sounded the horn to recall passengers – a group of about 6-8 failed to appear: how they could get lost on an island about the size of the MCG is astounding. Anyway, the boat left without them. Returning to the boardwalk, it was time to head for the exit (wherever that was)…the route meanders through a delta of streams & falls, and this part is particularly dangerous as the boardwalks are narrow, irregular and have no guard rails.

Eventually the end of the circuit was in sight and there was just enough time for a beer & fries before the packed boat ride back to Skradin – a few passengers weren’t allowed on. Then a bus ride back to Šibenik, after a nice chat with a couple of Phillipinos now working in Croatia after the Middle East.

A marvellous (tiring) day in a marvellous environment.

Day 17. Friday 17 April…a very warm 27 degrees.

Ferry to Split departed a little bit later than the programmed 1015, getting us there with just five minutes to spare to catch the bus to Šibenik, but docking right opposite the bus station.

We were a bit surprised, having bought our tickets at the booking office, to then be charged at the bus for handling our two suitcases. Whatever.

The hour and a half journey was pleasant, calling in at towns on the way, and even the occasional lonely bus stop. The coastal strip is a continuous string of villages/resorts/ apartments and boats. The walk to our apartment was only five minutes, but, of course, included a good length of steps! Apple Maps obliged to get us there, to be met by Brigita, who provided us with a very comprehensive introduction, welcome treats, including to the five resident turtles. The apartment is one of 3 in a very old block; she, her husband & elderly father live above. T may well be challenged by others’ proximity – and there is a barking dog.

Brigita recommended an evening walk along the waterfront to view Šibenik as the sun set. A few cafes and bars were busy, but none filled up – pre- season here too. Noted the price of fuel here: 1.85 euros corresponds to $3 for premium diesel, and 1.66 euros to $2.77 for 95 octane petrol. There is certainly no sign of fuel panic here.

As promised, the view back across the water to the medieval city was pretty spectacular.

On the way back chanced across a wedding at St James Cathedral – lots of very loud and enthusiastic singing and some dancing, plus lots of full-on glamour.

Three of the turtles are tucked up for the night. We won’t be far behind them.

Day 16. Thursday 16 April.

Bus trip to Stari Grad, which we’d passed through several times on a previous bus journey. Before boarding D came across some fish for sale.

Stari Grad is another boaties town like Hvar and Vrboska and to us is probably the pick of the three. But it is very, very old – the oldest town in Croatia,  (originally Pharos, circa 384 BC) and archaeological digs are still happening. It was quiet, as we’d expected, and had a nice ‘vibe’. There is a major ferry port connected to the town but it is some distance away around the corner & in another inlet.

We had the best coffee yet & then just strolled down one side of the harbour, in & out of alleyways, noting about 6 churches, a castle, and a canal running through town, with plenty of fish. The poet/philosopher/polymath, Petar Hektorovic is the singular hero.  Plenty of expensive boats and plenty of working ones. And more fish for sale.

Then headed to the bus stop for the return journey at 1215.

But D had misread the return timetable and there was no 1215 bus: the next was 1430. So we found some pre packed rolls for lunch in the supermarket ‘Tommy’ and strolled down the other side of the harbour. At the checkout a jovial local (we think the store owner) engaged us, picking that we were from Australia because of D’s hat. Not for the first time we had to point out that the hat was made in Italy and bought in Spain!

T found some Agave americana so broke off a piece of leaf to explore her inner nun. Probably not Benedictine.

One thing in particular struck us: the number of churches of various sorts. As you do, we looked to enter, but all were closed up, so we adapted.  A few were under renovation.

There was significant archaeological digging at the Church of St. John – including a discovery that may show the origins of football.

At a stall, a butcher was selling jamon/prosciutto and other smallgoods: T had a taster and he had a sale. He explained with a few words that the fabulous flavour was due to ‘salt and the north wind.’

Arrived back at the bus stop in good order, just relaxing and watching school buses arrive to disgorge kids or to pick them up. As one bus left just after 1400 a woman rushed over, waving her walking stick frantically, yelling for it to stop. She thought it was the bus to Hvar, that she had missed it and was not happy and took some convincing that it wasn’t. She and her much more relaxed husband are from Brazil, just over to Hvar from Split today on a day trip. She was very animated and had much conversation with T, while the two blokes only occasionally contributed. The husband was almost apologetic, saying his wife was ‘anxious’ but she was rich, ‘bloody rich’…a bit crazy ….then she returned with ‘he drives me crazy’. There were some obvious private jokes. Her outburst about the bus evaporated & there was plenty of humour as she said that she actually found Croatia too quiet, there was nothing to buy, the pizzas were awful,  there was too much pasta and she hated pasta (despite having an Italian father)  & she much preferred Italy!  When D commented on wonderful Italian wine, she said she couldn’t drink wine or alcohol generally, due to some stomach issue, but French wine was ok!

A little namesake on the way home.

We’d been promising ourselves a swim in the Adriatic Sea, to add to our list of oceans and seas we’ve swum in. Today we did it, (the afternoon got to 22 degrees) and despite appearances, the water was not freezing – quite pleasant in fact.

Tomorrow the ferry to Split, then bus to Šibenik. But first, a feast.

Time to relax and enjoy