Day 48. Monday 18 May.

A smooth morning on a clear sunny day meant we departed earlier than planned, so arrived at the bus station, Autobusové Nádraží Praha–Florenc, which is about 15 minutes on foot from our usual train station, with enough time for a relaxed coffee. There was so much time to spare that even D wasn’t stressed.

Our Flixbus came in late, and there was the usual rush, crush and push by some passengers to get luggage on first as though that would somehow advantage them – not even waiting for departing passengers to get their bags off until the bus driver remonstrated. He was further piqued when picking up a couple of bags, complaining to his offsider that they were over the 20 kg allowance (which they obviously were). We were suitably smug about our compliant little bags.

We eventually departed 20 minutes late. Our trip was uneventful – a five minute (turned out to be ten) stop after an hour or so, and a 15-minute stop in Brno to drop off and take on passengers. The stops probably recognised that the onboard WC was not operational for ‘technical’ reasons, which the driver more truthfully explained to the new passengers as ‘full’.

Traffic in the other direction was not so lucky. As we turned off into Brno it was banked up with little movement. As we left, on the outskirts it was banked up for about ten+ km, with trucks lined up nose to tail in the slow lane, and more coming to join the queue. The number of trucks (and buses for that matter) on the road was staggering, a constant stream of moving vehicles, plus so many parked at lay-bys and service stations. A real eye opener to the constant massive movement of freight and the critical role of diesel.

Arrived in Bratislava to get the news that the electricity in our apartment was off. A bit of to and fro with the hosts on Airbnb messages and WhatsApp, looking at options. Our host offered initially:

“Houston, we have a problem…

Dear David, we have an unforseen condition. We are very sorry and we will do our best to solve the situation the best we can. I tried to call you… via whatsapp and via cell. Long story short: the electricity in the apartment has been cut and we’ve learnt about it JUST less than an hour ago. Therefore, we have 2 options:

1. You stay in The Green Apartment completely free of charge the whole time (the electricity should start working tomorrow during the day).

2. We find and pay comparable/better nearby apartment for you, so you don’t have to pay anything extra, and we won’t give you any payment back.

3. We refund you the whole sum and you find something nearby yourselves. We are happy to help you with suggestions/assistance.

Please, let me know how you decided. We are VERY sorry for the inconvinience caused to you.

I believe, it should be possible to get to the apartment even without the electricity, since the door opener and PIN pad are battery operated.

You can also come to the apartment and decide there.”

So of those two options, we took the fourth offered later, which was one night in a nearby boutique hotel covered by the hosts, then the next two nights in the apartment, electricity reconnection permitting.

Checked out the apartment and checked in to Marrol’s Boutique Hotel. At reception the young man told us everything had been paid for except the local government fee that we were responsible for: 7 euro. He then looked at our passports and said ‘No fee – you’re the right age’. Nicest way it’s ever been put. The hotel is small, very, very elegant, very European, linen (??) wallpaper, black & white pics of yesterday’s celebrities and street shots of the stylish in a pre-jeans era… something from a movie.

Having settled, and by now about 1900, wandered deeper into the old town looking for dinner. We were on another planet!  The contrast with the last few weeks in cities was almost total: the elegance of a classical old town but with no crowds, no tour groups, spacious town squares and curved streets, and restaurants/bars with only a few patrons: where was everyone? D commented that it was a bit like the old Civic centre back home before the apartment blocks and students. We chose a cafe that offered some traditional Slovakian dishes –to learn that its kitchen was closed. Chose one with similar offerings – T had a bean soup, which was terrific, and D had a pork schnitzel Montenegrin (which means it had grated cheese on it) which was, as he described it, ‘fuel’.

Back to the hotel for a refreshment in a very sedate setting…we were in a ‘gentlemen’s club’ but there was only one gentleman on this Monday evening.