Day 20. Monday 20 April.

The only leftovers were green: a handful of rocket, so the turtles should be happy.

None of the forecast showers, no pressure to leave by 1000 – although we were ready -so an easy departure with suitcases and down to the bus station for the next leg along the coast to Zadar. Even time for a takeaway coffee on the waterfront, observing with great amusement the unrequited love of the male pigeons. And some sympathy.

The coast road is a strip of urban apartments, small shops, lots of bakeries (pekara),   autokamps (empty, as it’s not yet the season. But would be perfect for Crans!), small olive gardens and stones. The water, nearby islands & boats are ever-present. Not much of a beach.

Nicotine is still fashionable for all ages and our bus driver was desperate as he pulled into Šibenik with fag poised, closing the doors so he could exit for that fix, much to the consternation of the baggage handler. He wasn’t the only one: a couple of passengers needed the same. Our bags were stowed (2.6 euros extra please) & we boarded, choosing seats on the driver’s side (for the best view).  At some point D wondered if we were in the right seats: were they actually allocated? Nobody else seemed to be concerned. When he checked, seats were in fact allocated, but as someone else was in ours…what the heck. A woman nearby started coughing & continued…D initially hoped it was a smoker’s cough, but suspected after sustained coughing that it was something else. Fingers crossed.

The route was not spectacular (T had hoped for amazing scenery).  And then we were at Zadar, a big concrete bus station and the taxi tout was onto us. There was no question of our walking the 2 kms to our abode so we took up his offer. We are in an unpretentious (ugly) building one street back from the waterfront and very near the footbridge across to the old town. The apartment is at ground level!!  And inside is beautifully new and appointed, just as  described.

A quick check on where the markets are showed a nearby fish market, so a short walk across the bridge to the market…a fish offering might be possible!  But it was all packed up… the last, lonely retailer offered us a ‘first class’ fresh thing that looked like a bream for 30 euros! He would clean & scale it…ah, no thanks. We’ll come back tomorrow. The market opens 6 maybe 7…we might make it around 8. So provisions happened at Konzum with a pork loin (5 euros), potatoes, zucchini…and D keeps ahead of the wine supply. We’re close to running out of black tea: Twinings English Breakfast is the only & very rare offering of black tea, although you can have any sort of herbal tea ever imagined.

In the late afternoon it was back to the waterfront. Dropped in by chance to the tourist office to be greeted by a huge smile and enthusiasm by an engaging young woman – somewhat surprisingly, that has not always been the case. We took her advice, following the marked map past the usual churches and cathedrals (there are 18 according to the old town tourist map) to arrive at the wave organ: the sea hitting the concrete quay produces the melodic sound…just a pity that a whinging child and general chatter interfere with a meditative albeit repetitive piece (D thought of  Bolero without the build up).

A slow walk back along the sea front, no crowds, marvelling at the big schools of fingerlings and the occasional bigger marauders. And then on to the ramparts before heading home, dropping in to the local Studenac supermarket to discover Twinings English Breakfast!! Bought two boxes.

Pork loin & roast veges worked a treat. Can’t navigate dishwasher, so it’s just as well D likes to get his hands soapy.