Day 21. Tuesday 21 April.

Up early (for us) to get to the fish market by around 0800. Lots to choose from: whole fish, some shellfish, scampi, octopus and squid. We opted for some squid. Very impressed by the knife work in cutting out a chunk of the tuna!

Passed through the fresh food market, but baulked at the fresh asparagus at 5 Euros (about $9) a bunch, despite the vendor demonstrating freshness by snapping a stalk. Past the Roman ruins – the Forum.

 Decided to wander down to the sea organ again, assuming that this early there would be no noisy kids or tourist groups. We were right, but….

Back for breakfast then to retrace our steps for another try at the sea organ: by this time the tourist and school groups had arrived, but there were gaps where the background noise abated, and the wakes of a tug towing a barge and then a small cargo vessel overtaking them gave Bolero a bit of a run – but then subsided again without anything like a Bo Derek finale. The sea organ has four lots of ten pipes and does occasionally have a high note.

Further wandering brought us to the university via Spiridon Brusina, a Croatian zoologist with a special interest in the study of marine and fresh-water molluscs, the snails and shells of coastal Croatia – we were stopped at the door and politely and humorously told that we couldn’t enter as it’s a university.

Around a cute little bay, past the Land Gate and into a green space where the acanthus plantings look fabulous (envious, as ours in Fisher often look wilted by sunlight or snail-chewed).

Back into the old town walls, just meandering. Dropped into a Catholic church for a brief contemplation but not St. Simeon’s which was next door.

The museum was next but by now it was after 1400 and it closed at 1500, so that’s postponed.

 Past the Church of Saint Chrysogonus, to Konzum for some groceries, the fresh market for a lemon (not a whole bag) and a later thought, perhaps a leek at Studenac for tonight’s designer dinner.

This guy fancies his chances – we’re not so sure.

 Cook won’t need lessons. She has ‘designed’ something with calamari, leek,zucchini lemon, garlic & paprika on spaghetti (it will be the next best recipe on google). And a chunk of blue cheese!

Have decided on Plitvice Lakes for tomorrow (Wednesday) & forecast shows only 9 degrees/ shower!!! Bound to be a quiet day also for boat excursions & snorkelling.

Before the cook gets stove revved up, she has confirmed an accommodation in Zagreb for the weekend, leaving the Adriatic behind in favour of a ‘green’ environment’.  D has booked transport & advised T of departure timings…

Verdict on dinner offering? D says ‘alright’ but he really means ‘terrific’, agreeing with the cook.