Day 30. Thursday 30 April.

A beautiful bright morning. Checked out of the apartment in good order. In lovely sunshine, but a very cool breeze, walked to pick up the hire car from SixT, stopping at the café we’d dropped in to yesterday. The proprietor greeted us, remembered our order, and said that if our luggage was stolen from outside, we could run after it; we suggested HE could do that. Had a quite long conversation about life in Australia – tried not to be too pessimistic! At least we’re all safe.

VW T-Cross SUV picked up and on our way.

Rather than the direct route we detoured on minor roads, more or less parallel to the highway (A2). Traffic was light (because of the holidays, we’re told) and patient – no rush or pressure as D reacquainted himself with driving on the wrong side of the road and T got use to the closeness of the shoulder.

Good views of the mountain range in the middle distance, with quite a bit of snow on the higher peaks.

The final leg into Jesenice was a flashback to Spain and Portugal – narrow, winding roads with very sharp corners.

Arrived at the location, but unsure of which was our house: D was picturing a different set up – one we’d considered but passed on. Fortuitously our host Natasa arrived at this point and checked us in. The house was inherited from an uncle of her ‘man’, who had no children, and they have renovated it. We are the only occupants! Luxury, with no one scraping above or running water, or doors closing. Views of mountains are terrific.

Natasa advised us that the next two days are Public Holidays (something to do with May Day), so no shops will be open – and, as we’ve discovered, they’ll be shut on Sunday too. So off to Lidl for a big shop to see us through. The supermarket was SUPER-busy with the impending long weekend panic-buying. It’s difficult to buy in small quantities: although D’s potatoes are vital, we really don’t need a 5 kilo bag of them (T’s opinion). And how’s the garlic supply? T only wants one bulb, not three, but will buy three to get one. Where’s the consistency? But a real treat…some beef that will make a stovetop casserole (no oven).

Mid-afternoon and the central heating is on – it will be a cold night, the air chilly at 5 PM as we walk down to the local Mercator for a few things we forgot (primarily the aforementioned trinity of garlic). Down the road, then a lane, peeking into backyards that are laid out market gardens, down some steps and there, under an umbrella was an older lady with a fruit stall…it’s strawberry season, and she’s got mandarins, asparagus… and the pears? Just about every house has a vegetable and/or fruit garden, all looking very ready for the new season.

Come 6pm & we need the heating…the lovely hydronic is not so responsive…we can ‘hear’ some action, but the panels and pipes are only lukewarm at best. Across the road a chimney has smoke…it’s rather inviting.

Day 29. Wednesday 29 April.

A wet day looms. So first purchase was a brolly (T lost hers way back) but the new one was unkind & took a chunk out of D’s finger…and we didn’t have a bandaid or a piece of string! Like the nuns in Hvar (sort of) braided a piece of garbage bag into a usable thread.

We do sometimes plan ahead, so our next stop today was to the tourist information office for advice on getting to and around our next stay at Jesenice, up near the Julian Alps. The young woman was very helpful, firing up her computer and looking at various options – which mostly turned back to the idea that a car was the best way to achieve what we wanted, as local bus connections were not showing. Convinced, we went to Sixt, having previously googled hire options.

Natasha at Sixt was equally helpful, suggesting we’d be best with a small SUV like the VW Tiguan. Convinced, we agreed with that. Next was insurance cover, which was earnestly explained to us. Again convinced, D opted to take out full insurance, just for peace of mind, although he usually doesn’t. No questions about licence, and age was not an issue either (maybe OHS – or age discrimination – do not exist). Car booked for pick up tomorrow. We can now start looking at what we might do for the eight days of the hire: we have a Slovenian road map (bound to be some decisions – and decisions reversed!)

That sorted, and a coffee hit, off to the Ljubljana Emporium, five floors of high-end clothing and apparel (Hugo Boss, Ralph Lauren…& Slovenian designers)…nothing bought, and it seemed like everyone who came in were gawkers on a wet day, just like us. But in the haberdashery shop next door, T made her second purchase on this trip: an embroidery thread (or an emergency piece of string at 65 cents)…yesterday had been the first purchase: a ticket to the loo at the castle for 1 euro (last of the big spenders).

Rain was persistent, but the tour groups went on regardless.

Interesting architecture in a green city, with some interesting graffiti and fun offerings, but not sure that D’s ‘eggs tale’ could be beaten.

Stopped at a gallery on our usual route into town: A delightful exhibition by a Hungarian artist, Alexandra Faltisz, a fairy tale illustrator, graphic artist, and art teacher. The exhibition was playful and joyful drawing on ‘fairytales’ from childhood & stories told in painting, collage and linocuts. T particularly liked the collages with their bits of lace and crochet.

Returned home for a cuppa and decided, eventually, to go out again to take a boat tour on the Ljubiljanica. We were joined by a small group that seemed to be hosting a visiting Korean student. A young man, perhaps a university student, seemed to be his ‘keeper’ and kept up a continual, irritating (to us) commentary in English along with an even more irritating, constant and loud giggle. Who says we’re grumpy old folk?

The boat tour itself with no commentary, was unremarkable, although it did provide another view of this very pretty, green city – through rain-soaked windows.

Tomorrow, on the road again ‘poop poop’.

Day 28. Tuesday 28 April.

A fair day forecast ahead of possible rain tomorrow, so we opted to do ‘outside’ stuff today. But first stop was to the closest Mercator supermarket to get supplies for breakfast. Had an interesting conversation with the lady on the checkout – her English was very competent. She spoke of ‘depression’ as a national characteristic, brought on by excessive Government intervention. Like Stella in Dubrovnik, she mentioned cost of living issues, and low wages – and a reluctance of the young to work (guess she would have been in the 50-60 age bracket).  And politics: one learns to ‘zip the lips’. She spoke of a brother living in the US, who’d had heart surgery, but who would never return. Didn’t quite get to the end of that story: pity we were interrupted by another customer!

With main breakfast supplies of bread, milk, yogurt, banana we were set up for the day. Spent some screen time wondering about car rental versus bus travel and the next accommodation. The ease of bus is inviting and from Ljubljana day trips are do-able but there’s something about the prospect of getting quieter accommodation, for which you need a car. T is particularly conscious of others above (water running, furniture scraping, feet…). Booking made for Jesenice, a town in the Bled area, accessible by bus and maybe train. From there we’ll hit the big spots of Bled & Bohinj and take the scenic Bohinj rail trip through the Soca Valley( return)…lots of tunnels.

Setting out for a tourist day, we passed through a mixed market – fresh produce, flowers, clothing – that the tourist office told us opens every day except Sunday and public holidays. So much produce! It can’t all be sold.

We then spied the little green tourist train, and having established it as a (limited) hop on/hop off ride, boarded.

 It arrived fairly quickly at Ljubljana Castle where we alighted. A coffee to get us kick started – T ordered a Florentine, D ordered the Apple Strudel.

The table was dive bombed by sparrows keen to join in, but were waved away. Afterwards, a couple came back for the crumbs, as well as a Mediterranean Crow. Very cheeky birds.

T was keen to learn more about Slovenia’s history, so that was our first destination. Well, in summary, it’s all about conquest, struggle, reconquest, revolution….Romans,  Ottomans, the the Austrians, Venetians, the Slavs, the French, Italians, the Germans….the Yugoslavians (more recently).

To clear the brain fog we climbed the tower for a panoramic view of the city, the plain and the surrounding mountains, including the Julian’s in the north still with a lot of snow.

Dragged ourselves into the Museum of Puppetry, because it was included in our ticket, and pleased that we did. There’s still something magical about the pre-digital world of puppetry.

Back to the very bumpy green train to finish the tourist circuit. A loud bang and the train stopped, with the driver getting out with his walkie talkie to check. Turned out a kid had jumped on the running board of the last wagon, and opened and slammed shut a door. T reckons she saw him sitting inside: the driver said no and that he was ‘disgusted’ with ‘kids these days’. The commentary on the bus regularly referred to Ljubljana’s status as an exemplary ‘green’ European city, a reputation that needs to be held onto. This may be so for the moment… (getting rid of cigarettes would be a positive thing) but economic development/productivity/energy demands in a fragile Europe must be a serious issue.

In search of dinner…ingredients for 2 pasta meals from Lidl & then back to our abode, passing through lots of folk with disposable income.

Day 27. Monday 27 April.

As we left this morning, D made a comment that if he were living in an apartment complex in Zagreb he’d have to become an ‘Ove’ & do something about the graffiti (over spray?) and more particularly the piles of rubbish just left around & spilling very untidily out of bins.

An early departure for a walk back to the bus station, retracing our steps from a few days ago, gave us time for a relaxed coffee. There seemed to be some confusion about the order, much to the amusement of a nearby gent. To make sure D typed it into Google Translate and chased down our waiter, to be reassured that ‘I’ve got it’. The order arrived: two double espressos, hot water on the side, two glasses of cold water, and a shot of something amber in a glass. Mystified, T checked out the docket that seemed very expensive – the shot was Jack Daniels! D took it to the counter, adamant he hadn’t ordered it, never drinks it, never has – and was given a refund. We worked out later that the waiter had probably heard ‘jug of water’ and interpreted it as a Jack Daniels.

Boarded smoothly, although D overheard another traveller being told by the Flixbus staff that his ticket said departure was at 1200 and it was now 1205. Oh dear! Croatian punctuality rivals D’s, although our 1215 bus left at 1216.

 A smooth trip. A request to the driver to raise his sunscreen just a bit so we could see ahead – we had paid a bit extra for the ‘panorama’ seats right in front – was met with great humour and pretending to misunderstand, lowering it further.

At the border with Slovenia the bus was boarded by a policewoman checking passports – which consisted of a glance in passing.

A 15-minute comfort stop after an hour gave everyone a nicotine break. We are constantly surprised by this…all ages, fags, e- cigarettes, vapes…We seem to be the only non-smokers, something else to set us apart.

Scenery was ‘gentle & green’ and neat…agricultural landscape, mostly wheat, and small towns with castles and spas.  Tractors were busy. Such a change after Croatia’s coastal rocks & sea.

Arrival on time and another walk to our ‘condominium’ and for the first time a couple of the cyclists, one food delivery, warned of their coming with a bell.

This time we’re doing AirBnB.  As we stepped out of the lift on the fifth floor two folk were leaving the apartment we’d booked. One was a real estate agent, the other perhaps a client.  He seemed a bit put out that we were early at 1500, when check in was 1600, although our instructions were clear that we could arrive early if the cleaners were finished. T interpreted him saying that the apartment was ‘on the market’ and then asked if he’d sold it…’No, today is the first day it’s on the market’. Checked that with the owner who was slightly apologetic: he’s trying to get an idea of its worth should he ‘decide to sell’. We do not anticipate potential buyers wandering through over the next three days!

The apartment is spacious, with separate longe and dining areas, a change from the studio style.

T had been very pleased that we’d used up all fresh supplies in Zagreb, hence the backpacks only had the essentials: herbs, oil, laundry detergent (a new addition) a packet of pasta, an unopened block of Parmesan..and a bottle of wine. So, the first task was off to the nearest Mercator for milk, bread & some fresh bits for dinner…it was shut. Slightly odd, as it’s Monday. A quick Google check confirms our suspicion – today is a public holiday to celebrate the Day of Uprising Against Occupation (formerly Liberation Front Day or Resistance Day), marking the establishment of the liberation front in 1941. Of course – we’ve done this before! We traipsed around for a while hoping to find ANY corner store open, just bread and milk would do – no luck. T was wondering how to turn a pack of linguine & a piece of Parmesan into a meal. We had passed through an interesting street just back from the river where little restaurants and ice cream parlors were open and T had seen a customer with an enticing mezze plate, so we went back and ordered the same… a very substantial and delicious felafel meal, with a couple of beers. It will keep us going till Tuesday. It included a bowl of potatoes.

On the short walk back to the apartment we stopped at the bridge to take some photos. A group of Asian tourists demanded that T get out of their picture opportunity! As we left D stood next to one of their many models, taking her turn, and said ‘get out of the way’. They enjoyed the joke.

Just for fun, T tries the tv…there’s virtually no choices, but fortunately there is a ‘Lone Star’ channel serving black & white Western films…Roy Rogers, Annie Oakley, John Wayne, Randolph Scott…24/7!!! D will be up all night. T is transfixed – just realising what she’s missed out on.

Dinner

Day 26. Sunday 26 April.

Today will be a quiet day, T declared, no more than 8k steps. Plan is to do a loop: Strossmayerov Park, Botanical Gardens, Art Park, and Museum of Illusions. Departed a bit before midday, after some lovely catch-up calls home.

We had in fact been through the top part of Strossmayerov Park before, so once we got there headed down towards the railway station, admiring the facades and the green space. D was desperate for a coffee – we found a nice spot right in front of the station. Coffee culture is strong here, and happens at so many outdoor  ‘lounging points’, usually a drinks-only thing, so D’s hope for an accompanying pastry were dashed.

Apple Maps decided it did not want to guide us to the Botanical Gardens: just dropped out repeatedly as soon as directions were asked. Google maps was more obliging. A slow walk along the shaded paths, with T delighted to see that weeds were allowed to grow in pretty much all the beds! Fisher garden joins the club.

The frogs were having a great time, making a lot of noise, and were not ashamed to show their skills, perhaps tadpoling.

Apple Maps now on best behaviour, so let’s go to the Art Park, located just opposite the entrance to the Tunnel Gric. A couple of guides promised an abandoned park, transformed by street art and a vibrant open-air museum. It is all boarded up and gates padlocked – no entry. Staff at Café Grif directly opposite had no idea what T was asking about. Seems the reviews might be a bit out of date.

Maybe we do the Museum of Illusions. As we got near, Ilica street was closed off for market stalls, probably stretching for over a kilometre. What fun! As well as the stalls, there were a couple of dance groups giving demos and inviting passers by to join in. People-watching is a lovely slow activity. Enjoying the atmosphere so much we dropped the idea of visiting the Museum AND there was a Heineken stall nearby! Folk gather in groups and as solos …a lovely atmosphere.

T has designed tonight’s meal, cleaning up veges & rice, so it’s duck into Spar for the missing ingredient.

Step count: 12770.

Day 25. Saturday 25 April.

Forecast for the day: 25 degrees & cloudless. A relaxed start to explore Zagreb. Yesterday the initial impression was of a city a bit tired – that was not the case today. Different, of course, from the Adriatic towns and cities…(Z has lots of green); today the city buzzed with locals and tourists, and apart from the obvious groups, there was usually nothing significant to distinguish them – just occasional accents or features – and behaviours with cameras.

With tourist map in hand we wandered towards the old part of town, through a green patch – Park Ribnjak –  abutting Zagreb Cathedral. Peaceful, a squirrel and some examples of ‘street art’.

 Architecture is less ancient, Zagreb having been hit by earthquake and rebuilt in 18-19th Centuries but still suitably impressive to a couple of colonials.

We were looking for the fresh food markets and were initially disappointed to come across what were basically tourist souvenir stalls – but below these were the real thing.

There was also an adjacent ‘Adelaide Market’ equivalent.

Moved down into the main square – called Trg bana Josipa Jelacica (Trg is ‘Square’ in Croatian) – and the flower markets where a beautiful springtime bloom was on her bike.

The sound of a band and the clatter of hooves – it was the changing of the guard! Two guards were protecting the statue of bana Josipa Jelacica and were being ceremoniously replaced. And the tourists flocked to watch, which was the whole point.

Found the Tunnel Gric and walked through under the historic neighbourhood of Gric (D thought it was the ‘Greek’ tunnel) which gave the tunnel its name. It was built during WWII by the government to serve as a bomb shelter & used again in more recent times (1991-5).

Continued our wandering, briefly dropping into an artist’s gallery-opening where patrons were sipping wine: we were not offered. Theme was botanicals & quite delightful; we did not buy.

Locals were out, enjoying the day, including kids tiptoeing through the tulips.

Through the Stone Gate – the most famous and only preserved old city gate, believed to have been built in 1266. Its present-day appearance dates from the 18th century and it now serves as the shrine of Mother Mary for a painting that survived the Great Fire of Zagreb in 1731. As well as tourists snapping photos irreverently, there were worshippers reverently occupying the little pews and a woman diligently dealing with excess wax.

Passed by St. Mark’s, where there was serious wedding photography taking place. Very fancy roof! And the back of the dress was divine.

 It may have been the ‘real thing’ but felt a bit like some sort of promotional shoot. The proximity to the Museum of Broken Relationships was not a good omen.

Having visited the Love Stories Museum in Dubrovnik (9 April), we just had to visit its opposite here: the Museum of Broken Relationships (a popular attraction).

 There were some very poignant stories of lost love, including several from Melbourne. And some to chuckle over.

Feet dictated when to turn for home via Dverce Palace, along a route becoming familiar. Zagreb city is very walking friendly, pedestrians only need to dodge the tramlines where little blue trams snake every which way.

Long day – home to put feet up and plan/book next stage in Ljubljana (done) – and think about options from there. Weather has been very kind: warm, windless day but still knackered from walking.

Day 24. Friday 24 April.

An addendum to yesterday. To fill a little pre-dinner space we took an evening stroll into the old town to look at the II Palaces: the Rector’s Palace (which had been rebuilt after serious damage in the 1991 conflict) and the Providur’s Palace. They are exhibition & concert venues now.

Then on to the Bell Tower next to St. Donatus’ Church. It was still open, despite twilight approaching so up we went …many flights of stairs to a panoramic view of the city at sunset with a very stiff breeze.

Now the day starts. Such punctuality! Booking was for 0855 & sure enough there it was…Uber to bus station, short wait, fight our way on to the bus without being trampled, toss out a man sitting in our allocated seat, and on the way on time. Interesting how the ‘rules’ are approached…have a crack at what you want to do & deal with any challenge seems to be the go. Almost four hours, with a 15-minute break somewhere after halfway. Fairly comfortable trip – the driver seemed to have both hands on the steering wheel most of the time! When it comes to bathroom rules, it might be different. The bus took a 15-minute break at a servo/café & the queue to get to the toilet was long. T saw that a ‘disabled’ cubicle was available & looking around, could not see anyone needing it, so tapped on the shoulder of the woman in front of her, asked the obvious question in gesture language, checked with the woman behind with the same gesture & then broke ranks to use it. The chatter was instant…it’s for ‘invalided’…& on exit, there was a brief scowl from the toilet monitor. Seriously?

Arrived into Zagreb, and tried to get an Uber to our apartment: app refused to play so we decided to walk the 1.6 kms, all fairly flat and just a few stairs to negotiate on arrival. Entry was easy. The little apartment is in a ‘newish’ part of town, with a tiny balcony & teeny tiny kitchen.

Evening stroll into the city with no destination in mind. Great danger from cyclists and scooter riders zooming past – had two near misses. Parts of the town look tired, other parts alive. Lots of folk out enjoying a mild evening with drinks & snacks or just waiting for the tram.The tram network snakes all over and it’s not clear where one should cross the street but we got home safely, cooked salmon tail & potatoes in the teeny tiny kitchen, washed up in same & will face a new day tomorrow (ANZAC Day).

Day 24. Thursday 24 April.

T has been reading a rather trashy novel set in Paris about a bakery and the regular references to preserves going onto bread & pastries has inspired a new thought… turn the half-punnet of strawberries into a kind of preserve to accompany the leftover piece of pork loin from Monday night. It’s a challenge to use all fresh supplies before moving on. So, the strawberries were sautéed with some balsamic & a pinch of paprika. We’ll need a final shop for a potato & a small tub of yogurt for Friday brekky. T announces that today’s breakfast will be a café treat.

A small spot in the sun was needed, out of a very fresh breeze. Found just the ticket & ordered coffees to start. Then when a woman arrived at the next table& ordered a rather complicated coffee, T struck up a conversation. Her accent was a bit ‘South African’ but she was an Aussie from Sydney & we talked with some embarrassment about our shared pedantic approaches to coffee. And yes, she was originally from South Africa.

Somewhat distracted by conversation, T ordered the Dalmatian breakfast for two: tuna pate, shrimp, aragula, eggs, tomatoes, toast. What wasn’t mentioned was that the eggs were fried and there were three each – and when the plates arrived, to T’s dismay she had forgotten to ask for no eggs. D was faced with a choice!

Conversation flowed – travels, places, Cape Town (add to bucket list), Croatian bus drivers, her brother the famous cartoonist…..On researching later, we concluded that her brother was probably Jonathon Shapiro nicknamed Zapiro. She was travelling alone with no itinerary, a 6-week break from a stressful Sydney job…her Chinese husband is at home. No names exchanged, but laughs and travel tips…She agreed with our comments about bus drivers, and had registered a complaint!

T walked, D pecked and scratched his way, over to the museum, T worrying that at any moment he might start ‘clucking’. The displays on three floors traced the history of this region, from the first days of human occupation until basically the Roman occupation. It was simple but comprehensive: too much to take in fully but a terrific background and so much of the Roman Empire cultural practices are with us still.

From there, over to St. Donatus church, which has been stripped of most of its internal fittings etc, which are on display or storage at the museum, for further renovation.

The church was built in 9th century on the old Roman forum, ceased being a church at the end of 18th century and was stripped of altars, fittings and religious paraphernalia…and during archaeological work, the floor has been removed to reveal the Roman foundations. It was marvellous to be in ‘a church stripped bare’.

Much of the stripped items are held in the archaeology museum next door. The forum, the church & museum make a terrific trio.

Afterwards, we had a fascinating talk with the young lady at the entry, initially about the church then about the war in the 1990s. She was very animated: her father had been involved, and family property damaged, including her grandmother’s house, destroying all memories. She said her grandmother had died before she was born, but as there were no photos left, she had no idea what she looked like. She mentioned that Zadar had been hit hard and there was lingering resentment – as we parted company, D& T wondering whether there was any truth about her optimism that ‘things are ok now, with the young people’ in the Balkans.

Back to the sea organ. The Adriatic had been whipped up by a strong wind, so the music was much louder, but still no Bo. D hasn’t laid that egg yet but T wonders if he needs any more protein tonight…maybe he can just go with greens & the strawberry- surprise! The answer is ‘No’.

Day 22. Wednesday 22 April.

Plitvice Lakes today and forecast is COLD.

A 0830 bus means an early start, which in turn usually means a restless night. We are at least consistent.

Arrived at the bus station at 0730 – D had, of course, arranged an early Uber, and the Uber driver was early. Bus loaded and departed on time.

The driver mostly drove one handed, occasionally no hands, but never two hands. He manipulated his mobile while driving, having a first conversation continuously for about an hour, the second for about half an hour, and four smaller ones. However, we arrived safely and the thermometer sat on 7. T was surprised that there were so many visitors already, tour groups and student groups and a trio of sweet young things had clearly not previewed the weather forecast, arriving in shorts & singlet tops, then gasping at the cold.

Coffee, entry, and then the park spoke for itself. Plitvice Lakes is the oldest and largest national park in Croatia, situated in the mountainous region of Croatia, between the Mala Kapela mountain range in the west and northwest, and the Lička Plješivica mountain range to the southeast.

The park is primarily covered in beech forest vegetation, with smaller areas under grasslands. The most attractive part of the park – the lakes – cover just under 1% of the total park area.

The lake system is comprised of 16 named and several smaller unnamed lakes, cascading one into the next. It is impossible to do the whole complex justice in a few photos! As with Krka National Park, the boardwalks were narrow, mostly without rails and in this case the rushing, gushing, icy water splashes up & onto the timber path. Not sure how parents manage their little ones & would hate to deal with summertime visitor numbers. And it was a bit disconcerting having people walking in the opposite direction! The boardwalk timbers were of different and irregular widths, so T was extra cautious. It was ‘surround sound’ & visually jaw-dropping.

Met up with an Aussie couple from Mollymook – Sue and Greg – both retired school teachers, and shared some part of the way, after agreeing on the correct route. Their son is teaching music at Deakin High (but we didn’t get to surnames). They are also independent travellers, but with an arranged itinerary.

A beer at the end was a perfect end, then to the bus. Same driver, same situation. Alighting the bus D booked an Uber to get back to the apartment, and we were picked up by Ivana, an engaging and industrious young woman. We got the full story – divorced, two kids (12 & 5), kindergarten teacher with three other jobs to make ends meet! She was a new uber driver (one week in) & had come to this new part-time job after previously child-minding (too much like her kindergarten stuff) & apartment-cleaning (causing back and shoulder problems). It’s a 7-day week working lifestyle, as costs are steep but she was optimistic…’this brings positive energy’ & she certainly had it in spades. T felt very humble.