Day 25. Saturday 25 April.

Forecast for the day: 25 degrees & cloudless. A relaxed start to explore Zagreb. Yesterday the initial impression was of a city a bit tired – that was not the case today. Different, of course, from the Adriatic towns and cities…(Z has lots of green); today the city buzzed with locals and tourists, and apart from the obvious groups, there was usually nothing significant to distinguish them – just occasional accents or features – and behaviours with cameras.

With tourist map in hand we wandered towards the old part of town, through a green patch – Park Ribnjak –  abutting Zagreb Cathedral. Peaceful, a squirrel and some examples of ‘street art’.

 Architecture is less ancient, Zagreb having been hit by earthquake and rebuilt in 18-19th Centuries but still suitably impressive to a couple of colonials.

We were looking for the fresh food markets and were initially disappointed to come across what were basically tourist souvenir stalls – but below these were the real thing.

There was also an adjacent ‘Adelaide Market’ equivalent.

Moved down into the main square – called Trg bana Josipa Jelacica (Trg is ‘Square’ in Croatian) – and the flower markets where a beautiful springtime bloom was on her bike.

The sound of a band and the clatter of hooves – it was the changing of the guard! Two guards were protecting the statue of bana Josipa Jelacica and were being ceremoniously replaced. And the tourists flocked to watch, which was the whole point.

Found the Tunnel Gric and walked through under the historic neighbourhood of Gric (D thought it was the ‘Greek’ tunnel) which gave the tunnel its name. It was built during WWII by the government to serve as a bomb shelter & used again in more recent times (1991-5).

Continued our wandering, briefly dropping into an artist’s gallery-opening where patrons were sipping wine: we were not offered. Theme was botanicals & quite delightful; we did not buy.

Locals were out, enjoying the day, including kids tiptoeing through the tulips.

Through the Stone Gate – the most famous and only preserved old city gate, believed to have been built in 1266. Its present-day appearance dates from the 18th century and it now serves as the shrine of Mother Mary for a painting that survived the Great Fire of Zagreb in 1731. As well as tourists snapping photos irreverently, there were worshippers reverently occupying the little pews and a woman diligently dealing with excess wax.

Passed by St. Mark’s, where there was serious wedding photography taking place. Very fancy roof! And the back of the dress was divine.

 It may have been the ‘real thing’ but felt a bit like some sort of promotional shoot. The proximity to the Museum of Broken Relationships was not a good omen.

Having visited the Love Stories Museum in Dubrovnik (9 April), we just had to visit its opposite here: the Museum of Broken Relationships (a popular attraction).

 There were some very poignant stories of lost love, including several from Melbourne. And some to chuckle over.

Feet dictated when to turn for home via Dverce Palace, along a route becoming familiar. Zagreb city is very walking friendly, pedestrians only need to dodge the tramlines where little blue trams snake every which way.

Long day – home to put feet up and plan/book next stage in Ljubljana (done) – and think about options from there. Weather has been very kind: warm, windless day but still knackered from walking.