Main course: Lake Eyre flyover with the delightful Gabriella, the youngest bush pilot in William Creek (22 years old d), a Kiwi lass doing the desert season. A ‘toy’ plane, (Cessna 182, second most popular small plane in the world), 3 passengers (D was not one of them) and the only little bump was on landing.

Entrée: the drive to Oodnadatta, a feast of pink, mesas, dry watercourses, the occasional groups of grazing cattle and the Algebuckina bridge.

Dessert: the Painted Desert, halfway between Oodnadatta and the Stuart Highway.

After dinner treat NOT: Set ourselves up at Arckaringa Station with lots of space all round and within 5 minutes a pair of campertrailers park themselves right alongside and unload their firewood!!!! We did think of politely suggesting quite a few other suitable sites, but desisted. Presume that they will light the fire and have us smoked by 9pm. Anyway, they will share the pleasure of the vacuum toilet repressurising at whim during the night, as well as the water pump, both of which seem to be protesting about the cold nights.