Day 16. Sunday 23 March.

Some relief this morning at having our next destination sorted, but we are aware parking will be a constant issue. But on reflection, if we had booked ahead, we would not have been aware of the issues with a car that we need to take into account, such as the very narrow streets, tight turns, limited public parking, not necessarily appropriate private parking etc. We have also found that some of the smaller towns that we might choose don’t have (quite reasonably) frequent bus services or any rail connection. So we’ll try this model: live in a small place, drive to desired destination, park (!) and walk.

Today the target was to visit Baeza and Ubeda. The historic centres and landmarks of these two towns have been declared by UNESCO as world Heritage sites. But on the way we decided to drop in to the Museo de la Cultura del Olive, as we had often wondered what the process for picking (surely not with staves, as D remembered from his boyhood), extracting and refining now was. And we are in the ‘olive kingdom’ (66 million trees in Andalucia).

We discovered that there was a huge variety of olive trees, some useful for eating olives, others for oil. We couldn’t tell the difference. It was fascinating to see the regrowth of ancient trees: chopped down to ground level, and sprouting new limbs. It seemed that three new trunks was the norm.

We encountered another delightful and helpful attendant. She sent us off with audio guides, and we were able to wander easily: we were the only visitors apart from another couple, who we didn’t encounter until the end. We discovered that the olives are now harvested mechanically – and processed similarly, with lots of quality control. Interestingly, the way the mechanical devices operate is very similar to the manual processes of the past. Basically it is pick and squeeze, a bit like courtship.

We drove into Baeza, around the expected narrow windy streets, but opted to confine the visit to a mobile tour. So on to Ubeda. Again, a lot of driving around looking for a free parking spot – harder than winning the lottery. We had thought we’d had a win, pulling into a free spot, but then saw the sign ‘vado permanente’ which we learned, is a special permit that allows a property owner to reserve the area in front of their driveway or garage, meaning that parking is prohibited. A bit further on we did have a win, so we were now on foot to try to get to the historic centre, following a sign that pointed us in that general direction, but didn’t have any follow up. T went into a swanky hotel (Michelin signage) to ask where to go and we were pointed in the right direction – ten minutes. Stopped for lunch at a little cafe, having passed several cafes/restaurants that were full of locals. Once again, staff were accommodating and friendly.

Recommenced our walk but not really sure where we were headed, T noticed some very up-market shop windows (all closed) and by now the rain, though not heavy was persistent,and the air very, very cold, so we opted for a return to ‘home’ – good decision, as the rain become heavier as we drove. 

We were faced with a shortage of some essential supplies, but Google maps identified a couple of small grocery stores nearby and one was open, so we were able to resupply most of what we needed.

Dinner. Pork and aubergine casserole (tomatoes, mushrooms, onion, garlic, red wine,) with steamed potato and broccoli.

After dinner, T was still puzzled by the crowds we’d seen queuing to go into the church – they were there again, all ages, this afternoon, in the rain.It’s 3 weeks till Easter, so what is this scene about? So off we went to check it out – it was just a few minutes away. We were in fact the last ones to be let in. We entered into the main church (first pictures) and followed others into the side Chapel. We couldn’t see exactly what was happening, but some appeared to lean down to kiss behind the figure, and one women passed behind the whole time on her knees. Each person picked up a ribbon or wrist band from an attendant before passing behind the figure. We weren’t brash enough to do the whole ritual, and not sure of the niceties, so opted to slide out of the exit doorway. So we still don’t know exactly what it is about – perhaps we’ll follow up tomorrow.

Day 15. Saturday 22 March.

Started the day with a short WhatsApp chat with a gang from Canberra.

Then we walked down to the tourist office and received some help, but not really what we were after, which was information on the next province to be visited: they held stuff on Jaen but no others. The very helpful attendant was however able to clarify the long queues of all ages outside a local church we had passed a couple of times yesterday (we think, the Sanctuario Camarillo de Jesus), waiting patiently in sometimes drizzle. She said they were waiting to kiss the feet of Jesus – she said an image, but we assume a statue (that seemed to be confirmed on Google).

Next destination was the Museo Jaen, to get a snapshot of the history of the city.   There was the usual mutual incomprehension between us and the attendant, but always in good humour and in the end some useful communication. It was also free.The museum consists of two sections: archaeology and fine arts, the latter including many religious paintings and variety of other subjects. T rhetorically asked why there are rarely, if ever, paintings of nude men, whereas, like today, there are plenty of female subjects. D could only point to a nearby statue which was undeniably a naked male. And of course the religious art was everywhere.

And a couple not so religious…..but no nudes

On our way to our next stop we paused to watch a wedding party and guests emerge from a church, Parroquia de Cristo Rey, with lots of singing/chanting, cheering and throwing of confetti. Interestingly, the women were pretty much all dressed in a single, vibrant colour (apart from the bride, of course).

Next was the Museo Ibero, an impressive building and even more impressive historical display, with the main two displays having English translations. Again free, and again some eventual partial understanding of the explanations given in Spanish. One of the attendants continued to deliver instructions or advice well after we’d indicated we had no idea what she was talking about: her colleague eventually rolled her eyes, said ‘bueno’ and waved us away.

The first display focused on the various Iberian settlements that inhabited the region’s different territories and how they developed, were conquered and freed over centuries. The second display (unfortunately no translation) was of of ancient money – the As and the Dinari: 70 Dinari, by the way, being the annual salary of a Roman Legionnaire. The third display was  also of artifacts, on the basic theme of mythical ‘heroes’. Again, there were English translations.

Rain had threatened but the short showers have been pretty much while we have been inside: our luck is holding. 🤞

Back home to try to find our next location: one with all the facilities but especially accessible parking. We may be dreaming. But after a couple of hours, and switching to AirBnB, we have found (we think) the perfect place outside a tiny village named Zamoranos. Watch this space.

Dinner: Comforting Chicken soup, salad, bread and Brie.

Day 14. Friday 21 March.

We made it to the Catedral to view the painting of the shroud that has the face of Jesus imprinted. A procession of locals came forward to kiss the icon, while two women recited the Rosary. A seated priest in full regalia also appeared to be saying the Rosary but was seemingly not in the least excited. We were not sure of the protocols: could we take photos (we didn’t) and should we make a donation (we didn’t)? Now not sure whether, after last night’s early departure from the organ concert, that there are now two strikes against us.

But by now being across at least some of the cultural and social norms, we decided to proceed from the viewing to the supermercado to shop, rather than waiting until they are closed. So seemingly, did half of Jaen. I thought the shoppers in Woolies were a hazard: the ones here are legend, but we got out unscathed.

Our next target today was the Castillo de Santa Catalina – no, we are not yet over castles. This involved a drive, so Jose had an outing: it was a bit longer getting there than Google maps indicated, due to missing a few turns, back tracking – Doris up to her tricks. But we made it, with lots of parking in lots of space & the castle cats didn’t blink.

We took the audio tour again, helped along by a very friendly and happy lady in the ticket booth. As well as the historic interest – including what seems to be a pattern of Muslim and Christian occupation of sites – there were great views of Jaen from the castle and the cross. The French had been a bit narky at losing in the 1810-1812 period and had left behind significant destruction, such as poisoning or filling in wells.

After that tour we headed for Alcala la Real, about 36 km away. As we passed a sign to Martos, T said ‘let’s go there’, so we did. It was basically a drive through the town, without a stop. Probably the most significant thing to note were the white houses (and how quiet it was, being the ‘lunch break’ time of day).

So on to Alcala. The vista was remarkable – endless olive groves stretching up mountain sides, often with a castle or church nestling at the top.

For T, the Magic Moment was the landscape: hill after hill of olive terraces…how are they harvested?

Doris must have been listening to an earlier conversation, because she took us to the Castillo de la Mota, overlooking Alcala. We decided not to take the tour, but just wandered around the base.

Forecast rain started as we headed back for Jaen, trusting Doris to do the right thing. Did she? No way. We were directed to a parking spot, and told we’d have to walk the rest of the way! Fortunately D has remembered the host’s arrival instructions, and some of the roads we have driven on when a bit lost, so we were able to get back. Unfortunately, on one of the very tight turns (we had been warned) Jose suffered a slight scrape on the bumper bar. Bummer.

Dinner. Pork loin, seared and baked, with baked potatoes and carrots and pan fried broccolini, with a Vina Albali Tempranillo Roble 2023.

Something learned today: A Roble is a young wine with a light touch of oak aging retaining the appeal of young wines but also having a hint of oak that makes it smoother and slightly more complex.

Day 13. Thursday 20 March. Improving but still slightly dumb tourists.

Armed with a paper map (Doris on Google maps is no longer entirely trusted) and a planned short route to the Catedral Jaen, all was good. The delightful girl at the ticket desk gave answers to all questions with a big smile – and (responding to: I have a question) explained the cultural norm of lunch – 3 hours with family, friends, main meal, beer and wine. We can deal with that!

Catedral was indeed magnificent in combining the marvels of art, beauty and agony accompanied by an organ-tuning session (hopefully there is a link at ‘session’ to a short movie). It’s likely that we’ll be faced with cathedrals and/or palaces at every place we visit, but it’s early days and we’re not yet jaded.

We used the audio tour, and finished with a 5 minute virtual overview using drone-view video viewed with virtual reality headsets. We were warned that it could cause vertigo because you are ‘virtually’ flying through space and just hanging. D was certainly affected, not so T. And yes, we were told, there are organ concerts…it just happens there’s one tonight at 2000 – and it’s free. 

As we were leaving, we were told of the ‘face of Jesus reliquia’, a painting of the imprint of Jesus’ face, copied from one of the folds of the cloth with which Veronica wiped Christ’s face on his way to Calvary. The piece of cloth is held behind the painting in the frame. There are apparently only 3 pieces of the cloth with the imprint known – the Vatican, Manoppello (Italy) and here. It is shown to the public on Friday mornings (as a concession) and paraded on two sacred days. D told T to suspend doubt and have faith: we may return tomorrow for a viewing.

Dos cappuccinos extra caliente at a little cafe, where a patron reminded T of staying alert to pickpockets because he’d noticed her putting a paper bag into a back pocket (bag had contained some sweet treats, was now empty and saved as the next onion skins and garlic repository). And the waiter waved a cheery ‘au revoir’ after T had snapped a pic of a very decent stew, perhaps left by some customers? There was a lot left.

Next stop the Banos Arabes – Arab baths…uncovered in a 20th century building project and dating from the 11th century. Again, what a marvel of engineering in the first instance and then a painstaking restoration. Topping off the excursion was viewing the city from the rooftop terrace.

And yes, those Lambert kids had possibly been there.

Plans for not getting lost went slightly astray again, but redeemed quickly, but this time with an additional ‘slow learner tourist’ label…we couldn’t gather tonight’s dinner supplies, as supermarkets are closed from 1415 till 1730. D was confident that the local one we’d went to yesterday was still open, because Doris said so, and because we passed several women carrying supermarket bags of food items suggesting they’d just been there. But no – it was closed. Another mark against Doris, and we figured that those with bags were finally going home after their lunch time tapas and beers …DUH!!! 

Having been advised to enter the Catedral at around 7.30, we left a bit early to shop for dinner ingredients, possibly meatballs. None available, so opted for a similar alternative – best described as what happens when balls are squashed. Entered the Catedral crypt along with a bunch of older women (about our age), thinking this was the event, but it was probably a Mass, so we beat a hasty retreat. Around to the front of the Catedral, third door, where we had actually been told to enter, to join others waiting to get in. Waiting…. waiting….Eventually the doors opened a bit after 8 PM, and we took seats in the choir area, chosen for a quick exit. People continued to arrive – some obviously knew the true starting time. The organist entered to applause and started playing a bit after 8.30. Having heard three pieces, we decided to make a run for it a bit after 9 PM – to find our quick exit door had been shut, meaning we had to reverse direction, go around back of the choir stalls to get out the door opposite. So a quick, unobtrusive exit became quite obvious to everyone. Not sure if we had breached some sort of protocol or insulted the artist, but it was time for dinner and refreshments. We had a short atmospheric walk through well lit night time Calle to our home of the moment.

Magic Moments.

#1. The virtual ‘fly around’ of the Catedral.

#2. The beautiful panoramic view from the Banos Arabes.

Dinner.    Hamburdehesa (Retinta beef) in an onion, tomato, mushroom and herb sauce, accompanied by a Faustino VII Rioja Tempranillo. (PS. The beef was excellent)

Day 12. Wednesday 19 March. ‘How to be dumb tourists in Jaen’

We weren’t tempted into that swimming pool! Our unit is part of a renovated old building – the exterior walls are about a meter thick. It seems to have been done very recently, and as well as being modernized has retained some of the old fittings, like the solid external doors.

Our apartment is on the very narrow Callejon Pilar de la Imprenta – it’s on the left side in the first picture. The second picture is the turn to get into the street that we did make, and the third picture is the turn that Google maps ‘suggested’ we try – there was no way.

Set off to explore, sans maps & (later discovery, no phone charger backup).

But taken by the narrow streets and interesting buildings, including churches pretty regularly. We also got an idea of how the city is located, on one of the many hills in this area. There were plantings citrus trees scattered regularly throughout plazas in the city, and mostly they were bearing fruit. Unfortunately the ones that were within reach had already been cropped: after later fossicking through one near our apartment for a lemon, T had to buy one (37 cents) in the end.

All was fine for a couple of hours of meandering using google maps (albeit with some backtracking when we surely on a different planet from google). Observations of ‘older folk Wednesday’…beers & tapas prevailed while we had only got to coffee stage (we did eventually realize it was 1330). Groups of older men occupied small bars & couples sat at laneway tables. So different from the bold & beautiful youngsters in Madrid. 

Arrived at the cathedral to see that it needed tickets, so, figuring that some kind of multi- museum pass would be a good idea.

Dr Google consulted for directions to the tourist office. Tracked, then back tracked to find that of course it had moved, so more re-tracing; then at last we found it tucked away!!!!! But it’s closed till 1700 (like many businesses). At 1500 we were too footsore, so a retreat to home would be sensible. But, where were we?  A rough idea and we set off to realize that we were off course (in Army terms: ‘geographically embarrassed’). By now phone power was running low. D marched ahead (yes, we had been going in the wrong direction) T dragged a chain further back & wondered what we would do when battery totally failed. Somehow, D found enough power to locate find ‘parked car’ & all was good. We’ll get the hang of cultural differences & the ‘carry-essentials’ soon. 

A welcome beer, left by our hosts as part of the greeting package, didn’t touch the sides. Quite foot sore we ventured out again later to grab some supplies for dinner, relishing pretending to be like the locals doing the same thing.

Dinner. Pasta and atun salad, (with egg, potato, oregano, lemon) accompanied by an Otonal Rioja Seleccion Especial Crianza 2021.

Day 11. Tuesday 18 March.

Waking at 0330 has some pluses: T can try the whatsapp video call to home…Sal picked up pronto & then Fi…how lovely to see them both. Then, with still some time to kill T thought to try someone from the friends gang. Lo & behold there was double trouble with Helens (by 2) & a pile -on brought Brendan in (he was at Southlands, so said hi & bye). T is not keen on this groupie thing, it’s too much like a zoom, so individual numbers will be sorted. Then maybe the tech scene will be under control.

Departed rainy cold Madrid in peak hour, managing to exit through a vehicle lift by twisting & turning the wheels again and again: we only just fitted. Anyone would think we had a truck! But it’s just a little hairdresser’s car. After several wrong turns we were onto the A4 heading south. 

First coffee stop in Don Quixote territory – a small town named Consuegra. Luckily, given the weather, we could drive up the hill, past the intimidating castle to the windmills. Pretty amazing technology: wood, stone, metal & wind…not sure how the bread is made if the wind don’t blow! Then through productive plains: grapes, olives, more olives, grapes, & more olives. 

Red soil, grey skies and one ‘C road’ reminding us of a previous misadventure in Pilliga! But we survived this one too.

Next stop on this particular set of ‘best drives in Spain’ brought us to Almagro where the town layout was a fan of white painted houses & businesses with the Plaza Mayor at the centre. A walk, a ‘little snack’ (we really need to just share ‘uno’ jamon sandwich rather than ordering ‘dos’).

Then a visit to the supermarket! What a gem: so much produce. Prawns, cheese, pasta, & a salad …something will emerge for dinner (it did). 

Then back to the A4/E5… more olives & grapes. The temperature rose to 19 briefly, then mountains (with snow) appeared & we were in Jaen. After getting into a situation where we couldn’t go forward, D had to override Doris’ directions and come in via a different approach to the apartment. The ‘roads’ are alleyways, tight even for our tiny Peugeot 208 car but so far (day 2) we haven’t scraped Jose’s (named this morning by Shams’) new red body paint. Apartment is a delight with a welcome cake in the fridge, a familiar oven, and a cheery, helpful host with translating-on-device instructions. We’re here for 8 nights, with plenty to explore & opportunities for D to perfect the car manoeuvring.

Magic Moment. We were met by Antonio, who ran us through in great detail about the apartment. This would have to be one of the very best places we have stayed at anywhere: everything laid on, well in excess of expectations, and so well explained, albeit via the mobile phone language translation. And a welcome cake!

Dinner. Prawn Pasta, (with chorizo, guacamole, chilies) with a mixed salad and a Frederico Paternina Rioja Banda Azul Crianja 2023.

Day 10. Monday 17 March.

A freezing, damp day (max 7)…a rest day of sorts: but we did have to pick up our lease car. We travelled by metro and bus across town to near the airport. 

Contrary to advice, our travel card couldn’t be used for the bus trip part, but we were able to pay cash. We worked out later it was probably because we were going out of zone: we did know there was a three Euro extra charge for metro to the airport. D was surprised that all the other passengers boarded to the back of the bus. The possible answer came once we took off: the driver steered mostly with one hand, used his mobile and not once kept to the speed limits! Fortunately, T couldn’t see this.

The pickup was in an underground car park, and we received a comprehensive brief before heading off – well, far enough to stop to input our destination. Our navigation aid was sometimes a bit tardy and a bit vague, so several times we missed turns. It was a bit off putting to be told to turn left at the next roundabout – you actually, of course, go right and take (usually) the third exit. But T picked that up very early.

So we arrived back, ready to tackle the underground parking. Key inserted to open the gates, but by the time D had returned to the car they started to close. T then stood at the gates holding the key in. A second key opened the doors to the lift, and the car just fitted in. Doors closed as a staff member frantically waved about (as we eventually discovered) ‘emissions’. He arrived in the parking lot with more gesticulations as D was trying to do a three point turn (it would have actually needed about ten turns) to be able to drive straight out rather than reverse. More waving, and the penny dropped: the concern was CO build up, so engines are stopped in the lift and as soon as you enter the car park.

So now the rest day can start – well, after a shop for some supplies and a coffee at Monkee. And planning for the next stage(s) begins.

Dinner: Salmon tail baked in lemon and butter (wrapped in foil), potato, carrot, Brussels sprouts, fresh peas with a Carrizal Reserva Rioja 2018.

Magic moment: And of course D had serious ‘charging equipment’ at hand (love it the way this guy has most bases covered).

A few reflections/observations on our time in Madrid.

Our apartment was just fine – small but adequate. It was mostly quiet, and we felt secure. We were proximate to a housing apartment complex of several buildings of about nine stories, but the environment was likewise orderly and sedate.

We became very comfortable traveling on the Metro. It is a fabulous system, and was clean and felt safe. On only a couple of occasions were the carriages full, and we were often offered seats when there were none free. Our local metro station, Canal, was just a sort walk from the apartment.

Language was not a major issue, although we – and our interlocutors – occasionally struggled. But we got by, and there was usually a smile or giggle.

In the area we were in there was no big supermarket like Woolies. The closest was a Carrefours, which more more akin to an IGA. There were also a couple of smaller supermarkets – say, like a 711 – within easy reach. Fruit and vegies were a bit problematic but there were small Fruit and Vegetable shops that had a good range, and available in individual pieces (eg one carrot, rather than 2 kg prepackaged).

Traffic seems to have its own set of rules but is at the same time quite orderly. We’ll see!

As a guesstimate costs are not dissimilar to Australia, or perhaps slightly higher in some cases – except for wine. We have enjoyed a range of very acceptable reds with prices as low as three Euros (about $5.50).

And lastly, the locals have been very friendly and helpful when we’ve interacted, and have left us alone otherwise. A couple of times we were offered help when it was obvious we were bemused (directions and using the Metro card top up system, for example).

Day 9.Sunday 16 March. Flamboyant Sunday.

It was time for a slower pace; feet & knees were protesting fiercely. Another cold, crisp, cloudy morning. Options were: visit the famous flea market at Salamanca or take in some culture with an exhibition of installations at the Liria Palace. Option 2 won…fantastic choice. D has the metro system down pat, so we quickly arrived at the destination with time for the essential coffee hit. 

The palace is set back on a main commercial avenue & surrounded by gardens. T. gulped at admission price of 19 euros each but D said ‘what the heck’ or something similar.

Lisbon artist Joana Vasconcelos had created pieces (mostly very big) to blend with the opulent furnishing/decorations within this ancestral home of the Duke of Alba.

Curiously, the palace had been ‘destroyed’ in a fire in 1936 but renovated completely and while now stuffed full of the family’s collection of treasures, at the time of the fire the collection had been safely stashed in various locations. T wondered what the palace rooms had held in ‘36?

Room after room showed furnishings, tapestries, paintings, ornaments etc collected over 5+ centuries & included ‘current’ family photos. Wealth, power, lineage…What a family history!

And the artist’s additions! Yes, she focused on the stuff of the everyday, with a distinctly feminine perspective.

And then the garden…

Magic Moment.

At the hair installation Perruque there was reference to some human hair being used; T asked the attendant ‘Which one is human hair?’To which the answer was, ‘I don’t know’. Whereupon T commented on the attendant’s terrific hair and said, ‘You’ve been to the same hairdresser!’ There was a shared laughter & the attendant was happy to have her photo taken.

Dinner. Flamboyant Corn. All of yesterday’s concoction plus more chorizo, herbs, beans….and corn cobs. With an Arco del Sol, Ribera del Duero Roble Tempranillo 2023.

Day 8. Saturday 15 March.

We’d booked the Toledo Completo tour, which left at midday (we had to assemble at 1130) so the morning was relaxed. T cooked up a hearty soup to be ready for our return around 9 PM.

At our meeting point seven of us boarded the 45 seater bus – this was going to be really comfortable. That didn’t last long – one stop further along the bus filled pretty much to capacity.

About an hour to Toledo which many passengers used to catch up on some sleep. As well as high rise apartment complexes, particularly within the city bounds, we passed ‘villages’ of a common building style: two storey maisonettes, not dissimilar to the ones we lived in in the UK in 1982.

Toledo’s first stop was the mandatory visit to a damascene workshop, demonstrating the working of Toledo steel  swords and knives and the art of damascene, the inlaying of gold threads into a base of oxidized steel. The patterns are etched into the metal, and the thread (so thin it is barely visible) is worked into the rough edges. Nothing bought but there was an eye-popper that tickled T’s fancy.

The focus on Toledo was about seven significant sites, that we would visit on foot. First up: the Iglesia San Tome. As was to be the case throughout the visit, locating was a bit of a challenge: the maps were too little detailed and more an approximation than an accurate picture and the cobbled streets & passageways wound up & down & all around. We had two maps, and by combining them,  managed to avoid getting too geographically embarrassed!

On route, D found a hat store, and came away hatted.

Our first site was the Iglesia de Santo Tome is located in historical center of the city of Toledo. It was founded in the 12 century, constructed on the site of an old mosque of the 11th century. This mosque, as well as other mosques in the city, were used as Christian’s churches without major changes. Toledo appeared proud that the three major religions had historically co-existed.

The church is, however, mostly famous for the painting by El Greco in 1586 to commemorate the death the Count of Orgaz, who had contributed generously to the rebuilding of the church, bequeathing an annual donation for the upkeep of the church and the poor. T was completely wowed by the figure in the white robe.

Next stop was the Sinagoga Santa Maria la Blanca, a building that had several ‘owners’ over the centuries and the only building that had significant security, and a screening in place.We learned later that the security has been installed only in recent months (and fortunately there have been no incidents). This was the main synagogue in Toledo’s Jewish quarter, dating from the late 12th century. It ceased being a synagogue in the 15th century and was converted into the church of Santa Maria la Blanca. This was the simplest of the buildings we visited. The walls had lovely ceramic tile decorations, with the stucco capitals decorated with intricate swirls, sashes and pine cones, the latter being a symbol of the unity of the people of Israel. The rooms to the side of the main room contained explanations of the history of the Jewish population of Spain, and of the Jewish religion. It was very comprehensive, we needed a whole day to do it justice and take in the story of Jewish Spain.

1610 was the meeting time with guide Noya for the tour of Catedral Primada. Our tour group was just 4 :two fellow tourists, a mother and adult son from Chile. They didn’t know Iris.

The cathedral dates back many centuries,from 1226,changing from a Muslim to Catholic sacred site. High Spanish Gothic style, Renaissance, Rococo influences as it was restored/ renovated over 5 centuries.The second largest cathedral in Spain, the largest in Seville, is twice the size! Opulent+!!! 

The choir section was fascinating: seats ( just 3 tongues, really) are designed to encourage the choristers to stand throughout. Interestingly, the conductor’s stand has its back to about a third of the choir, which would not suit some conductors we know, but the style probably would (and the school kids).

As usual after visiting such a sumptuous and grand building we came away somewhat conflicted about its role, civil & religious  (and perhaps it’s contradictions) past & present –  wealth and power versus the actual needs of citizens/ adherents.

After the Catedral we sought out the Museo de Tapices y Textiles de la Catedral,  eventually finding it after much re-tracing. It was closed.

Our last stop, a bit rushed, before we headed back to the return bus pick up point was the Mesquita Cristo de la Luz. This building dates from about 999, and was originally a mosque. It was transformed into a church two centuries later. The building is surrounded by a large terrace and a portion of the Arab wall, with terrific views of the city below.

Magic Moment

#1- Our delightful guide in the Catedral – and particularly when she laughed at our side play of getting out from under the cardinal’s hat (she had earlier explained that when a cardinal was buried in the cathedral his hat was hung high above the tomb stone set in the floor. When the string holding the hat finally gave way, whether the hat fell on the tombstone (heaven) or to the side (hell) determined where the spirit would go. If the hat hit you, it was the latter!)

Dinner: Chorizo Sopa (choritzo, gazpachpo, onion, garlic, parsley, cumin, potato (only one), carrot, zucchini) with Bardesano Rioja Crianja 2021