Day 8. Wednesday 8 April.

First visit is to Fort Lovrjenac, which is outside the walls of the Old Town. A relatively easy walk – but still lots of stairs, mostly going down. Finding the entry was a bit of a challenge but eventually got there: the paper maps lack detail, and Apple Maps seems to delight in misdirecting D, just like in Spain. Along the way we met Clifford and Oswald, their big sister and their mum, holidaying from Jo’burg. The boys were much more interested in finding tiny hermit crabs than dealing with steps and a stone fort. Mum was originally from Pinaroo (SA); she home-schools the three & recommended visiting Bosnia- Herzegovina (just over the border) …T will think about it.

More steps, with some interesting views on the way up.

And a tip on making a statement in this colourful environment: T thought one was a fashion photoshoot, with the professional giving instructions but D thought it was a ‘personal shot’ (the guy seemed reluctant to be involved).

Panoramic views – the castle itself was rather austere.

While having our well-earned coffee afterwards, we noticed sea kayakers coming back in. T made enquiries, we checked the QR code, ummed and aahed, then decided we would book for the sunset paddle. T asked one of the returning kayakers, a Scottish lady, how it had been. She asked if T was by herself – when T pointed out D, she was told that she’d be fine. That was less a compliment to D’s obvious physique than an assessment that two rowers was the best option. Booked online, then did a recon to confirm the meeting point, which was not obvious until we found it.

So, to fill in some time, we headed to the Museum of Contemporary and Modern Art. Needless to say, we got there in a roundabout way, up stairs, up a steep road, again thanks to imprecise maps (and perhaps D’s map reading and sense of direction?).

It is a compact gallery on three levels. Exhibitions were likewise small, but some quite interesting pieces.

The first floor had a selection of Dubrovnik artists – with one piece in particular catching our eye.

Second floor was the Kviz Collection.

Third floor was a collection of electronica in blue – not really to our taste.

Returned to the apartment via an easier route to rest up for the paddling.

Made our way to the designated paddlers meeting point (an orange umbrella).

 Unfortunately the afternoon breeze had arrived. It would be a bit challenging. Nine kayaks (18 paddlers)…all at least half our age if not more, set out after the safety brief, and issue of life jackets, dry bags, oars, bottles of water….and a trek along a narrow sea wall to the departure beach.  

One kayak turned back fairly soon in the rather heavy swell. After our initial apprehension, followed by the first ‘christening’, we felt safe enough (the morning expeditions had so looked placid/glassy!) The two person kayaks were very stable and handled swell and wash well. Betina cave, accessible only by sea, was the turnaround point; a few brave souls dunked/swam & the remainder were pretty ‘chilled’.

Because of the wind and heavy-going, we didn’t make for the island usually included in the trip but returned more or less directly to home base, paddling against a strong breeze. The sunset was spectacular, a huge ball dropping on the horizon with a replica sailing ship (Karaka) silhouetted: a bit of magic!

Our lower halves drenched, we landed, shivered as we dashed as best we could up, up, up to our ‘home’, a hot shower & a glass of rose. A worthwhile experience, followed by a lovely chicken dinner.