Day 7. Tuesday 7 April.

Another brilliant morning…sunny & windless. Supermarket was the first stop, desperate for morning cuppa …Earl Grey is the only offering apart from herbals! The shop is really only a tiny grocery store with limited products. But Dinner supplies bought for next 3 days: 1 chicken, 2 potatoes, 3 tomatoes, 3 carrots, garlic, 2 onions, packets of dried parsley & oregano, oil & s&p… cheese & prosciutto…T wonders how there’ll be a  different meal each night and without CUMIN! D chooses some appropriate reds & a terrific dark loaf.

After brekky the day’s plan is hatched: let’s do the walls walk in our own slow time. But first a coffee and an omg moment! D finds a packet of cumin seeds in the ‘secret back shop’ at Kawa.

 At 40 euros for a once-only, one-way stroll, it takes us much of the day. And it was terrific. Being a one-way circuit reduces congestion & despite whichever cruise ship was in today, there was no real pressure. Views across the rooftops were splendid. It was a perfect day for: roof repairs, peeking into backyard terraces, admiring the vege-patches, watching the kayakers and jetty-jumpers, and drying the undies & socks.

The terracotta roofs (new) glowed, contrasting with the muted lichen-covered tiles, but what a reminder of  times recently passed: maps showed that most roofs were damaged/destroyed in the 1990-91 Homeland War, being pelted by shells/missiles from the limestone ridge directly above (Serbian/Montenegrin guns).

Dubrovnik’s story is the familiar sad tale of power/plunder. The city, formerly the city-state-republic of Rugosa is still under restoration in parts.

A small marine museum detailed the glory days of Dubrovnik’s sea trade, boat building and 154 consulates throughout Europe. The ladies’ craft stall was quiet.

The walk/climb – ‘allow 90 minutes’ – took us about 4 hours. We marvelled at the stone, the roof tiles, the straight lines, curved lines, towers, steps and the Adriatic water: clear, aquamarine & glassy. At the exit we thanked the staff, asking how the summertime crowds were managed: with great difficulty…’it’s a nightmare, when 5 ships and several flights are in’… but congratulations, it’s so clean…’there are cleaners constantly, we have to keep it like this!’

Dinner worked: roast chicken & veges, with leftovers for 2 more versions. And that washing machine sound is not…it’s the funicular doing its thing, right next door! Thankfully it rests overnight.