Day 74. Tuesday 20 May.

Destination today is Covadonga, to firstly visit the Asturias Sanctuary, and then the Lagos de Covadonga, both located in the Picos de Europa mountains.

We stopped for a coffee, just short, intrigued by the statues/carvings…

The sanctuary was busy with several tour buses in. We had no foreknowledge of this place apart from reference to a chapel in a cave in the mountains and it seemed an appropriate destination on a day in the Picos. Our first stop was the museum, a small but beautifully curated exhibition, focussed on big portraits and religious artifacts.T ogled the embroidered vestments; oh to have that skill. One set had come from Cardinal Angelo Giuseppe Roncalli, who became Pope John XXIII. Although there was no English translation available, some information could be gleaned.

Next was the neo-Romanesque Basilica with two high towers flanking the main entrance. It is impressive from the outside, and although similarly impressive inside it’s decoration is understated, without the massive ornamentation and gilding of most cathedrals/churches we’ve visited. And no photos allowed inside (however some visitors missed or ignored the signage).

The Santa Cueva de Covadonga (Holy Cave of Covadonga) is now a Catholic sanctuary. A spring flows out of the cave and below this there is a fountain with seven spouts. On the altar, a gold panel represents the battle of Covadonga, that defeated the musselmen (Muslims) in 711. The Asturian hero Pelagius is buried in the cave.   He was a nobleman who founded the Kingdom of Asturias in 718 and is credited with initiating the Reconquista, the Christian reconquest of the Iberian Peninsula from the Moors, and establishing the Asturian monarchy, making him the forefather of all the future Iberian monarchies. Legend has it that a vision of the Virgin Mary gave the Asturians strength. It’s all part of the legend, whose origins are disputed. Before leaving the cave we paused to sit and contemplate; a big bunch of teenage school kids had preceded us (T wondered what it all meant to them). Then the scrutineer who had repeatedly announced on the PA system that there was to be no photography (but nodded to a couple of folk that it was OK – very Spanish) engaged us in conversation (we didn’t think we were so identifiable as tourists) and gave us a potted history lesson. We are not sure we have really got a handle on the history and the legends: there were a few blind corners and alternative versions/facts/interpretations. What a surprise! A few things stood out: Asturias IS Spain; it has never been conquered (pretty much due to its terrain and despite the fact that the original Asturians came from Northern Europe); the future monarch always comes to Covadonga to take on the  title of (we think) Prince or Princess of Asturias (like the Prince of Wales). This explains the grandeur of a rather isolated spot in the mountains and the size of the souvenir shop. Lunch was a forgettable sandwich in the cafetaria.

The Lagos de Covadonga (Lakes of Covadonga) are composed of two glacial lakes – Lake Enol and Lake Ercina. They are the original center of the Picos de Europa National Park, created in 1918. Eleven kms of super narrow bitumen (sheer on T’s side!) winds up to the parking lot beside lake…and a stunning backdrop of snowy peaks. We shared the road with a cycling group who had minivans to do the pickup. The ride was indeed very serious but we only saw one participant walking his wheels.

We weren’t up for a serious walk despite there being several trails around the lakes; it was late afternoon and our legs had done enough in the sanctuary. So, we just took in the view, enjoying the background melody of the cow bells.

Back at our cabin it was time for screen homework, a quiet glass of wine, thinking about packing up and moving on tomorrow. Then came a knock on the door and a visit by Monica, our host, to check up that we were happy with our stay and advising that we didn’t need to leave early tomorrow (we generally don’t).Two hours later the delightful Monica departed, after we’d shared (as well as a glass of wine) lots of stories, experiences and laughs. And we met Isadora, the robotic lawnmower (D would love one but we have no lawn) but that’s another whole story. Truly a highlight. When Monica heard about T’s fall and the bruising she hurried away to get the ‘magic salve’ that her mum makes; it’s guaranteed to ease the pain of the bruising from the fall on Sunday. It’s a herbal/ oil/ honey mix:legend has it that it heals everything from pimples to hemorrhoids! This is the place of myths, legends and visions after all!

Dinner. Very late (Monica to blame): Potato (D to blame) omelette, with cheese, red onion, cumin (T to blame), garlic accompanied with Dia’s special (leftover) mixed salad. It uses up most of fridge items.