Day 67. Tuesday 13 May.

Last day in Campo, and it looks wet again. Tossing up whether to go to Aveiro, stay at home and have a sauna and fire, a walk in the (wet) woods….or take one of Aida’s recommendations and eat at a local, authentic restaurant. The last option won.

After a very light and late breakfast and coffee, onto the road that Aida had suggested, and Doris was happy to guide us on. All good for a while: bitumen changing to cobblestones, then to a rough dirt track, with wide pools of water and uneven surface. The track borders the Ferreira River with stone dwellings and vineyard plots hugging the slope. Stuck with it for about 500 metres then opted to turn back and take a longer but smoother route.

Arrived at Mateus da Ponte in good time. The restaurant has been in the family for 100 years, in the same house on the Ferreira River, built in 1683. Not really sure where to enter as there was no signage of any sort. Went through a side gate and a gentleman sitting back having a beer indicated eating with his fingers to his mouth, and pointed.

Entered and met by the host Fabio, who indicated a table. At this stage the only five other guests were on a table together – talking loudly. As they continued to do (it was good humored, and not intrusive).

Fabio brought out starters unasked: bread basket, a plate of two sorts of jamon, and a plate with two fritters. He then took our order: chicken and pasta (a traditional dish) and pork. The pork was deep fried, almost like a schnitzel, and came with a big helping of chips. The chicken was quite dark and had a full flavour: T asked about it later and was told it was homegrown, not from a supermarket, hence its appearance and taste. The meal was accompanied by a carafe of Vinho Tinto – not finished, as D had one glass only – and a simple salad.

As we ate, a single man came in to eat then a table of four men. So including D, the odds were 11:1 versus T. Not a problem. As we left and paid we were invited into the kitchen to say hello to the cook – Fabio’s mum, and to the helper, from Ukraine. They run this kitchen 6 lunches a week and in the evenings they rest. It was a ‘home kitchen’ restaurant (perhaps there are only ever 2 options) and T thought she could do that.

A bit of a wander in the river area afterwards to settle lunch. A church, of course, the Igreja de Nossa Senhora das Merces,  where a group of older men were playing cards, and it’s sort of  predecessor a chapel, Capela Nossa Senhora das Merces which is still used.

On the move tomorrow, for a two night stay at Alijo. We took  an evening stroll in the neighborhood to check out a Capela we’d noticed on our journeys to and from. It appears to be derelict, and quite likely part of a large private property, whose boundary fence is a wall of tiled scenes (guarded by big aggressive dogs and a security alarm system). It’s interesting  that as we pass by there is rarely an acknowledgement initiated by the local folk; we say ‘ola’ and make eye contact. There is, however, usually a muted reply.

Hopefully no rain tonight and the track will hold together for our exit!