Day 59. Tuesday 6 May.

6 May is happy birthday to Maya Elva. Managed to slot in a quick WhatsApp chat.

Another misty start but looking very promising. A late departure – washing day – on our way to Vila Real, about 80 kms, but second job was D’s roadworks.

Vila Real:  T had seen descriptions of a beautiful, small, flat town centre with Gothic architecture and a palace.  D had plugged in a ‘No Tolls’ route, so that 80 kms took us over two hours along a tortuous, winding, mostly urban route, while the direct route occasionally paralleled us, just to make the point.

Arrived at around 1400 and Doris took us to the Parque Corgo. Drove in through an open gate, to be turned around by a polite but irritated man: the park was closed, didn’t we read the sign? (he spoke in Portuguese, but his meaning was clear).  Decided to go to Casa Mateus (not the one that makes the famous Rose) and drove in to be turned around by the attendant who told us parking was along the next street. He was kind enough to open the gates fully for us to reverse out. Having seen the entry prices, and D not drinking alcohol while driving, we gave a visit a miss.This was the ‘palace’ T had read about!

So into town, where we found a convenient parking spot – no doubt because it’s all paid, above the Rio Corgo. A friendly German stranger with little assisted D at the parking meter with  (there would be no fines). As that finished her young daughter turned up, with fluent English! Wandered along, desperate for coffee and by chance found ourselves in the old part of the town, looking for the meat pie for which the town is famous. Previewed a couple of restaurants/cafes, then T dropped into a Tourist Information office for advice: Pastelaria Gomes. Sure enough a little meat pie – covilhetes (the filling is veal, prosciutto, parsley and onion, an empada really) – each with our espressos then a semi-sweet rice cake with our second espressos. T was not tempted by the tripas, slices of jamon, a sprig of parsley and other ingredients (onion, garlic, tomato paste, white wine) rolled in a tripe covering.

Refreshed, we followed cobblestones and came to a walled vista revealing the canyon below. The ‘old town on a cliff’ description became obvious; the canyon below, carved by water was partly terraced with very, very old dwellings, gardens and access tracks.

We could see immediately below us old houses and garden plots, many still inhabited. One was obviously occupied – about a dozen cats, and then an elderly lady appeared from what D said was a granny flat: T asked whether that was her future?

There were walkers far beneath and across the river. It was a fine afternoon: how about we find the track? So, after paying for more parking, crossing the nearest bridge, but finding no access on either side, we reversed our tracks and took the lift that we’d seen school students using (this was our funicular ride that we missed yesterday). It was very smooth and not a bit terrifying with eyes closed.

So we did find the track access, initially past some houses and up rough cobblestones/stones, then rough steps…..and more steps. A lady of about our age gave up, her man continued, as we did.

After a while, the route became a boardwalk – partly good news, but it involved steps – up, then down, then up, then…And it went on. The views and the scenery were terrific.

Eventually the boardwalk finished: we were again on a rocky path, then cobblestone roadways,and finally back at the Museu (archaeological) we’d passed earlier.

We could do better than 2 hours drive home, so chose toll roads. Road was fantastic: mountaintop, curved, great condition…but the speed and occasionally aggressive trucks left T in a state: regained sufficient composure to make dinner (creative projects are often calming).

Dinner. Quick pasta (chorizo, tomatoes, broccoli, red onion, balsamic, green olives, cheese).