Day 49. Saturday 26 April.

So much to see and do! And being back in a big city is quite a change from our recent bucolic lifestyle.

First task was to sort out public transport. Much Googling seemed to indicate that a Navegante Occasional card was our best option – out of many, some with a range of inclusions. So off we went to our nearest Metro, Metro Moscavide. Found the right machine, punched in the information (two cards, cost 50 cents with 10 Euro credit each: total 21 euros), contactless payment,…..wait, wait…wait…

A young woman approached and asked if we needed assistance. As we spoke, the machine advised that the transaction was declined. Start again, this time using a credit card. D typed in his PIN – declined: wrong PIN. Start again, this time with the right PIN. Success. We were on our way on the red line (changing at Alameda) and then green line to the waterfront getting off at Cais do Sodre.

Walked along from the Metro stop, seeing fishermen adapting to the situation, as they do. And we saw at least two (smallish) fish being caught.

Next destination was Bellem, for a walk along the waterfront. Usually that would be by train, but trains weren’t running – possibly due to strike action. So the alternative was the 15E bus or tram. And of course everyone else wanting to travel in that direction wanted the same. A fair bit of pushing and shoving to get on board: D crossly demanded that pushing stop, and surprisingly it briefly did.

The waterfront walk passes several big cultural things: museum of art, architecture, and technology (MAAT), car museum (Museu Nacional dos Coches), monument to explorers (Padrão dos Descobrimentos), Electricity Museum (Museu da Electricidade – which looks a bit like Canberra’s Fitters and Turners). Sailboats/ cruises went by, folk were on bikes, scooters, feet and group pedal outfits. It was a lovely happy scene.

We searched for a coffee and snack, stopping in at a couple of swanky and very expensive (overpriced) restaurants.We’ve been caught previously at over-priced, over-glam eating spots so departed without too much embarrassment (there were plenty of glamorous patrons on a beautiful sunny Saturday).  D googled and we eventually came across a little gem, short staffed, with the front man worked off his feet, mopping his brow, running between tables, counter and the pig-chopping board but with a constant happy face and interaction with customers (some were obviously family/friends) and the local blokes who turned up for a beer or a wine and takeaways. We felt it intrusive to take a pic: he was fantastic, dealing jovially with everyone who came in.The specialty of the cafe was pork – it was in pretty much every dish on the menu, with the exception of a vegetarian soup and a fish cake, the latter made with Bacalhau, the traditional salted and dried codfish. We sampled all of the three available starters – croquette, fish cake and empada – and opted for a second empada each, with some beers. T thinks she won’t bother buying some codfish (hoping to turn it into something else) but noted that it was on menus at various cafes today. Watch this space.

Walked from there down to the waterfront again, but by this time were washed out so began the return journey. Not so busy, but still pushing and shoving to board, and no attempt to offer seats to those with any sort of mobility/age issues (not just us!), so different from our Madrid experience.

Dinner. Vegetarian spaghetti.