Day 29. Saturday 5 April.

Took a stroll last evening to meet some of the dogs who keep up a constant conversation across the valley during the night. A couple were roaming free, but although looking like neighborhood toughs, were actually very wary of us. It was interesting to see our little one bedroom cottage with its light on, against some of the mansions.

So to today. A four hour return trip to the mountains to visit Trevelez, the highest village in Spain, but more renowned for its jamon.

You couldn’t guess.

As we parked, observed a personal delivery service, reminiscent of the 1950s when bread and milk were delivered.

Wandered through and up the town, and were surprised that there were so few tourists obvious, despite at least four big coaches.  T noticed the crochet around all flowerpots & the rag rugs at every souvenir shop. Are they really handwoven?

As we were about to depart decided we really should visit the Museo Vallejo.  Two other couples had the same idea, but it was closed. One guy rang, and (a Spanish) five minutes later a lass arrived to let us in. We were glad that we’d done so – another window into a unique Spanish industry.

The ham-making tradition of the town dates back to ancient times, although the Vallejo family was the first to industrialize the curing process in Trevelez in 1951. The process does not use artificial preservatives, rather a natural curing process using salt, but with a low residual salt content. It is, apparently, a health food, and should be eaten with wine. Tick. The audio & poster guide took us through the jamon story, from early times to 20th century processes, still mostly hand-made from receiving, selecting, weighing, salting, washing, hanging, inspecting, buttering the 80,000 legs per year of only male & female pigs (both sorts castrated, and no other options) from certified growers. We marveled at being able to walk among the 25,000 legs there today,  (just hanging around) curing for about 24-36 months.There seemed to be no issue with people wandering amongst the legs (possibly touching….!!!). Trevellez jamon has a reputation for being the finest in Spain. We brought home a sample – having also bought some from Aldi a couple of days ago.

The road home wound up & wound down, repeat, taking us through mountains, impossibly located villages on slopes, tunnels on the autovia & finally down to sea level. Perhaps tomorrow will be a quiet day. Perhaps.

Dinner. Poached salmon and asparagus, with a compromised green salad (red tomatoes, red radishes, white feta cheese, yellow lemon juice, olive oil)