Day 13. Thursday 20 March. Improving but still slightly dumb tourists.

Armed with a paper map (Doris on Google maps is no longer entirely trusted) and a planned short route to the Catedral Jaen, all was good. The delightful girl at the ticket desk gave answers to all questions with a big smile – and (responding to: I have a question) explained the cultural norm of lunch – 3 hours with family, friends, main meal, beer and wine. We can deal with that!

Catedral was indeed magnificent in combining the marvels of art, beauty and agony accompanied by an organ-tuning session (hopefully there is a link at ‘session’ to a short movie). It’s likely that we’ll be faced with cathedrals and/or palaces at every place we visit, but it’s early days and we’re not yet jaded.

We used the audio tour, and finished with a 5 minute virtual overview using drone-view video viewed with virtual reality headsets. We were warned that it could cause vertigo because you are ‘virtually’ flying through space and just hanging. D was certainly affected, not so T. And yes, we were told, there are organ concerts…it just happens there’s one tonight at 2000 – and it’s free. 

As we were leaving, we were told of the ‘face of Jesus reliquia’, a painting of the imprint of Jesus’ face, copied from one of the folds of the cloth with which Veronica wiped Christ’s face on his way to Calvary. The piece of cloth is held behind the painting in the frame. There are apparently only 3 pieces of the cloth with the imprint known – the Vatican, Manoppello (Italy) and here. It is shown to the public on Friday mornings (as a concession) and paraded on two sacred days. D told T to suspend doubt and have faith: we may return tomorrow for a viewing.

Dos cappuccinos extra caliente at a little cafe, where a patron reminded T of staying alert to pickpockets because he’d noticed her putting a paper bag into a back pocket (bag had contained some sweet treats, was now empty and saved as the next onion skins and garlic repository). And the waiter waved a cheery ‘au revoir’ after T had snapped a pic of a very decent stew, perhaps left by some customers? There was a lot left.

Next stop the Banos Arabes – Arab baths…uncovered in a 20th century building project and dating from the 11th century. Again, what a marvel of engineering in the first instance and then a painstaking restoration. Topping off the excursion was viewing the city from the rooftop terrace.

And yes, those Lambert kids had possibly been there.

Plans for not getting lost went slightly astray again, but redeemed quickly, but this time with an additional ‘slow learner tourist’ label…we couldn’t gather tonight’s dinner supplies, as supermarkets are closed from 1415 till 1730. D was confident that the local one we’d went to yesterday was still open, because Doris said so, and because we passed several women carrying supermarket bags of food items suggesting they’d just been there. But no – it was closed. Another mark against Doris, and we figured that those with bags were finally going home after their lunch time tapas and beers …DUH!!! 

Having been advised to enter the Catedral at around 7.30, we left a bit early to shop for dinner ingredients, possibly meatballs. None available, so opted for a similar alternative – best described as what happens when balls are squashed. Entered the Catedral crypt along with a bunch of older women (about our age), thinking this was the event, but it was probably a Mass, so we beat a hasty retreat. Around to the front of the Catedral, third door, where we had actually been told to enter, to join others waiting to get in. Waiting…. waiting….Eventually the doors opened a bit after 8 PM, and we took seats in the choir area, chosen for a quick exit. People continued to arrive – some obviously knew the true starting time. The organist entered to applause and started playing a bit after 8.30. Having heard three pieces, we decided to make a run for it a bit after 9 PM – to find our quick exit door had been shut, meaning we had to reverse direction, go around back of the choir stalls to get out the door opposite. So a quick, unobtrusive exit became quite obvious to everyone. Not sure if we had breached some sort of protocol or insulted the artist, but it was time for dinner and refreshments. We had a short atmospheric walk through well lit night time Calle to our home of the moment.

Magic Moments.

#1. The virtual ‘fly around’ of the Catedral.

#2. The beautiful panoramic view from the Banos Arabes.

Dinner.    Hamburdehesa (Retinta beef) in an onion, tomato, mushroom and herb sauce, accompanied by a Faustino VII Rioja Tempranillo. (PS. The beef was excellent)

Day 12. Wednesday 19 March. ‘How to be dumb tourists in Jaen’

We weren’t tempted into that swimming pool! Our unit is part of a renovated old building – the exterior walls are about a meter thick. It seems to have been done very recently, and as well as being modernized has retained some of the old fittings, like the solid external doors.

Our apartment is on the very narrow Callejon Pilar de la Imprenta – it’s on the left side in the first picture. The second picture is the turn to get into the street that we did make, and the third picture is the turn that Google maps ‘suggested’ we try – there was no way.

Set off to explore, sans maps & (later discovery, no phone charger backup).

But taken by the narrow streets and interesting buildings, including churches pretty regularly. We also got an idea of how the city is located, on one of the many hills in this area. There were plantings citrus trees scattered regularly throughout plazas in the city, and mostly they were bearing fruit. Unfortunately the ones that were within reach had already been cropped: after later fossicking through one near our apartment for a lemon, T had to buy one (37 cents) in the end.

All was fine for a couple of hours of meandering using google maps (albeit with some backtracking when we surely on a different planet from google). Observations of ‘older folk Wednesday’…beers & tapas prevailed while we had only got to coffee stage (we did eventually realize it was 1330). Groups of older men occupied small bars & couples sat at laneway tables. So different from the bold & beautiful youngsters in Madrid. 

Arrived at the cathedral to see that it needed tickets, so, figuring that some kind of multi- museum pass would be a good idea.

Dr Google consulted for directions to the tourist office. Tracked, then back tracked to find that of course it had moved, so more re-tracing; then at last we found it tucked away!!!!! But it’s closed till 1700 (like many businesses). At 1500 we were too footsore, so a retreat to home would be sensible. But, where were we?  A rough idea and we set off to realize that we were off course (in Army terms: ‘geographically embarrassed’). By now phone power was running low. D marched ahead (yes, we had been going in the wrong direction) T dragged a chain further back & wondered what we would do when battery totally failed. Somehow, D found enough power to locate find ‘parked car’ & all was good. We’ll get the hang of cultural differences & the ‘carry-essentials’ soon. 

A welcome beer, left by our hosts as part of the greeting package, didn’t touch the sides. Quite foot sore we ventured out again later to grab some supplies for dinner, relishing pretending to be like the locals doing the same thing.

Dinner. Pasta and atun salad, (with egg, potato, oregano, lemon) accompanied by an Otonal Rioja Seleccion Especial Crianza 2021.

Day 11. Tuesday 18 March.

Waking at 0330 has some pluses: T can try the whatsapp video call to home…Sal picked up pronto & then Fi…how lovely to see them both. Then, with still some time to kill T thought to try someone from the friends gang. Lo & behold there was double trouble with Helens (by 2) & a pile -on brought Brendan in (he was at Southlands, so said hi & bye). T is not keen on this groupie thing, it’s too much like a zoom, so individual numbers will be sorted. Then maybe the tech scene will be under control.

Departed rainy cold Madrid in peak hour, managing to exit through a vehicle lift by twisting & turning the wheels again and again: we only just fitted. Anyone would think we had a truck! But it’s just a little hairdresser’s car. After several wrong turns we were onto the A4 heading south. 

First coffee stop in Don Quixote territory – a small town named Consuegra. Luckily, given the weather, we could drive up the hill, past the intimidating castle to the windmills. Pretty amazing technology: wood, stone, metal & wind…not sure how the bread is made if the wind don’t blow! Then through productive plains: grapes, olives, more olives, grapes, & more olives. 

Red soil, grey skies and one ‘C road’ reminding us of a previous misadventure in Pilliga! But we survived this one too.

Next stop on this particular set of ‘best drives in Spain’ brought us to Almagro where the town layout was a fan of white painted houses & businesses with the Plaza Mayor at the centre. A walk, a ‘little snack’ (we really need to just share ‘uno’ jamon sandwich rather than ordering ‘dos’).

Then a visit to the supermarket! What a gem: so much produce. Prawns, cheese, pasta, & a salad …something will emerge for dinner (it did). 

Then back to the A4/E5… more olives & grapes. The temperature rose to 19 briefly, then mountains (with snow) appeared & we were in Jaen. After getting into a situation where we couldn’t go forward, D had to override Doris’ directions and come in via a different approach to the apartment. The ‘roads’ are alleyways, tight even for our tiny Peugeot 208 car but so far (day 2) we haven’t scraped Jose’s (named this morning by Shams’) new red body paint. Apartment is a delight with a welcome cake in the fridge, a familiar oven, and a cheery, helpful host with translating-on-device instructions. We’re here for 8 nights, with plenty to explore & opportunities for D to perfect the car manoeuvring.

Magic Moment. We were met by Antonio, who ran us through in great detail about the apartment. This would have to be one of the very best places we have stayed at anywhere: everything laid on, well in excess of expectations, and so well explained, albeit via the mobile phone language translation. And a welcome cake!

Dinner. Prawn Pasta, (with chorizo, guacamole, chilies) with a mixed salad and a Frederico Paternina Rioja Banda Azul Crianja 2023.

Day 10. Monday 17 March.

A freezing, damp day (max 7)…a rest day of sorts: but we did have to pick up our lease car. We travelled by metro and bus across town to near the airport. 

Contrary to advice, our travel card couldn’t be used for the bus trip part, but we were able to pay cash. We worked out later it was probably because we were going out of zone: we did know there was a three Euro extra charge for metro to the airport. D was surprised that all the other passengers boarded to the back of the bus. The possible answer came once we took off: the driver steered mostly with one hand, used his mobile and not once kept to the speed limits! Fortunately, T couldn’t see this.

The pickup was in an underground car park, and we received a comprehensive brief before heading off – well, far enough to stop to input our destination. Our navigation aid was sometimes a bit tardy and a bit vague, so several times we missed turns. It was a bit off putting to be told to turn left at the next roundabout – you actually, of course, go right and take (usually) the third exit. But T picked that up very early.

So we arrived back, ready to tackle the underground parking. Key inserted to open the gates, but by the time D had returned to the car they started to close. T then stood at the gates holding the key in. A second key opened the doors to the lift, and the car just fitted in. Doors closed as a staff member frantically waved about (as we eventually discovered) ‘emissions’. He arrived in the parking lot with more gesticulations as D was trying to do a three point turn (it would have actually needed about ten turns) to be able to drive straight out rather than reverse. More waving, and the penny dropped: the concern was CO build up, so engines are stopped in the lift and as soon as you enter the car park.

So now the rest day can start – well, after a shop for some supplies and a coffee at Monkee. And planning for the next stage(s) begins.

Dinner: Salmon tail baked in lemon and butter (wrapped in foil), potato, carrot, Brussels sprouts, fresh peas with a Carrizal Reserva Rioja 2018.

Magic moment: And of course D had serious ‘charging equipment’ at hand (love it the way this guy has most bases covered).

A few reflections/observations on our time in Madrid.

Our apartment was just fine – small but adequate. It was mostly quiet, and we felt secure. We were proximate to a housing apartment complex of several buildings of about nine stories, but the environment was likewise orderly and sedate.

We became very comfortable traveling on the Metro. It is a fabulous system, and was clean and felt safe. On only a couple of occasions were the carriages full, and we were often offered seats when there were none free. Our local metro station, Canal, was just a sort walk from the apartment.

Language was not a major issue, although we – and our interlocutors – occasionally struggled. But we got by, and there was usually a smile or giggle.

In the area we were in there was no big supermarket like Woolies. The closest was a Carrefours, which more more akin to an IGA. There were also a couple of smaller supermarkets – say, like a 711 – within easy reach. Fruit and vegies were a bit problematic but there were small Fruit and Vegetable shops that had a good range, and available in individual pieces (eg one carrot, rather than 2 kg prepackaged).

Traffic seems to have its own set of rules but is at the same time quite orderly. We’ll see!

As a guesstimate costs are not dissimilar to Australia, or perhaps slightly higher in some cases – except for wine. We have enjoyed a range of very acceptable reds with prices as low as three Euros (about $5.50).

And lastly, the locals have been very friendly and helpful when we’ve interacted, and have left us alone otherwise. A couple of times we were offered help when it was obvious we were bemused (directions and using the Metro card top up system, for example).

Day 9.Sunday 16 March. Flamboyant Sunday.

It was time for a slower pace; feet & knees were protesting fiercely. Another cold, crisp, cloudy morning. Options were: visit the famous flea market at Salamanca or take in some culture with an exhibition of installations at the Liria Palace. Option 2 won…fantastic choice. D has the metro system down pat, so we quickly arrived at the destination with time for the essential coffee hit. 

The palace is set back on a main commercial avenue & surrounded by gardens. T. gulped at admission price of 19 euros each but D said ‘what the heck’ or something similar.

Lisbon artist Joana Vasconcelos had created pieces (mostly very big) to blend with the opulent furnishing/decorations within this ancestral home of the Duke of Alba.

Curiously, the palace had been ‘destroyed’ in a fire in 1936 but renovated completely and while now stuffed full of the family’s collection of treasures, at the time of the fire the collection had been safely stashed in various locations. T wondered what the palace rooms had held in ‘36?

Room after room showed furnishings, tapestries, paintings, ornaments etc collected over 5+ centuries & included ‘current’ family photos. Wealth, power, lineage…What a family history!

And the artist’s additions! Yes, she focused on the stuff of the everyday, with a distinctly feminine perspective.

And then the garden…

Magic Moment.

At the hair installation Perruque there was reference to some human hair being used; T asked the attendant ‘Which one is human hair?’To which the answer was, ‘I don’t know’. Whereupon T commented on the attendant’s terrific hair and said, ‘You’ve been to the same hairdresser!’ There was a shared laughter & the attendant was happy to have her photo taken.

Dinner. Flamboyant Corn. All of yesterday’s concoction plus more chorizo, herbs, beans….and corn cobs. With an Arco del Sol, Ribera del Duero Roble Tempranillo 2023.

Day 8. Saturday 15 March.

We’d booked the Toledo Completo tour, which left at midday (we had to assemble at 1130) so the morning was relaxed. T cooked up a hearty soup to be ready for our return around 9 PM.

At our meeting point seven of us boarded the 45 seater bus – this was going to be really comfortable. That didn’t last long – one stop further along the bus filled pretty much to capacity.

About an hour to Toledo which many passengers used to catch up on some sleep. As well as high rise apartment complexes, particularly within the city bounds, we passed ‘villages’ of a common building style: two storey maisonettes, not dissimilar to the ones we lived in in the UK in 1982.

Toledo’s first stop was the mandatory visit to a damascene workshop, demonstrating the working of Toledo steel  swords and knives and the art of damascene, the inlaying of gold threads into a base of oxidized steel. The patterns are etched into the metal, and the thread (so thin it is barely visible) is worked into the rough edges. Nothing bought but there was an eye-popper that tickled T’s fancy.

The focus on Toledo was about seven significant sites, that we would visit on foot. First up: the Iglesia San Tome. As was to be the case throughout the visit, locating was a bit of a challenge: the maps were too little detailed and more an approximation than an accurate picture and the cobbled streets & passageways wound up & down & all around. We had two maps, and by combining them,  managed to avoid getting too geographically embarrassed!

On route, D found a hat store, and came away hatted.

Our first site was the Iglesia de Santo Tome is located in historical center of the city of Toledo. It was founded in the 12 century, constructed on the site of an old mosque of the 11th century. This mosque, as well as other mosques in the city, were used as Christian’s churches without major changes. Toledo appeared proud that the three major religions had historically co-existed.

The church is, however, mostly famous for the painting by El Greco in 1586 to commemorate the death the Count of Orgaz, who had contributed generously to the rebuilding of the church, bequeathing an annual donation for the upkeep of the church and the poor. T was completely wowed by the figure in the white robe.

Next stop was the Sinagoga Santa Maria la Blanca, a building that had several ‘owners’ over the centuries and the only building that had significant security, and a screening in place.We learned later that the security has been installed only in recent months (and fortunately there have been no incidents). This was the main synagogue in Toledo’s Jewish quarter, dating from the late 12th century. It ceased being a synagogue in the 15th century and was converted into the church of Santa Maria la Blanca. This was the simplest of the buildings we visited. The walls had lovely ceramic tile decorations, with the stucco capitals decorated with intricate swirls, sashes and pine cones, the latter being a symbol of the unity of the people of Israel. The rooms to the side of the main room contained explanations of the history of the Jewish population of Spain, and of the Jewish religion. It was very comprehensive, we needed a whole day to do it justice and take in the story of Jewish Spain.

1610 was the meeting time with guide Noya for the tour of Catedral Primada. Our tour group was just 4 :two fellow tourists, a mother and adult son from Chile. They didn’t know Iris.

The cathedral dates back many centuries,from 1226,changing from a Muslim to Catholic sacred site. High Spanish Gothic style, Renaissance, Rococo influences as it was restored/ renovated over 5 centuries.The second largest cathedral in Spain, the largest in Seville, is twice the size! Opulent+!!! 

The choir section was fascinating: seats ( just 3 tongues, really) are designed to encourage the choristers to stand throughout. Interestingly, the conductor’s stand has its back to about a third of the choir, which would not suit some conductors we know, but the style probably would (and the school kids).

As usual after visiting such a sumptuous and grand building we came away somewhat conflicted about its role, civil & religious  (and perhaps it’s contradictions) past & present –  wealth and power versus the actual needs of citizens/ adherents.

After the Catedral we sought out the Museo de Tapices y Textiles de la Catedral,  eventually finding it after much re-tracing. It was closed.

Our last stop, a bit rushed, before we headed back to the return bus pick up point was the Mesquita Cristo de la Luz. This building dates from about 999, and was originally a mosque. It was transformed into a church two centuries later. The building is surrounded by a large terrace and a portion of the Arab wall, with terrific views of the city below.

Magic Moment

#1- Our delightful guide in the Catedral – and particularly when she laughed at our side play of getting out from under the cardinal’s hat (she had earlier explained that when a cardinal was buried in the cathedral his hat was hung high above the tomb stone set in the floor. When the string holding the hat finally gave way, whether the hat fell on the tombstone (heaven) or to the side (hell) determined where the spirit would go. If the hat hit you, it was the latter!)

Dinner: Chorizo Sopa (choritzo, gazpachpo, onion, garlic, parsley, cumin, potato (only one), carrot, zucchini) with Bardesano Rioja Crianja 2021

Day 6. Thursday 13 March.

Probably still a bit jet lagged as we were both wide awake at 0500.There was a fracas somewhere close by during the night & a barking dog! So an early start -T googled possible destinations for the day: how about a really good coffee & then a market visit (desperate for some fresh chili, garlic & coriander in very small quantities). Perhaps the San Miguel Mercado would have some? Then maybe a little vintage moment at Magpie Vintage (seemed to be close by). Finding a hole in the wall called Santa Kafeina proved a major walk, backwards & forwards & actually going into a coffee shop where a long queue had formed (pastries & bread looked fabulous) & tapping the shoulder of the guy ahead & asking for confirmation of Kafeina. Yes, he knew it & said it had good coffee & pulled up a map that showed its location only 300 metres further along. Well, we walked another 500 metres, still not finding it, till D pulled out his phone map. Sure enough we’d missed it , first time. Just one guy & an espresso machine & a few stools. The coffee was pretty good too – certainly the best we’d had in Madrid so far. 

Revived enough to tackle a museum, so  onto  the metro to the Museo National Centro de Arte Reina Sofia. The guy staffing an information booth directed us to the tickets….queues of school-age teens deterred our plans, despite the guy saying it didn’t look too busy! Shows how small town we are! A post-coffee issue is locating a toilet. There are none at metro stations…finding a Starbucks or McDonalds seems to be the go. The central station was nearby, which had been commented on favorably on yesterday’ tour, so why not have a look at the inside? Renos are happening to the grand entrance so we ventured down a side lane to arrive in a station where thousands were on the move. The ‘open space’ was probably worth the crush but we decided against joining any queue to investigate a train ride to Toledo. 

T had seen adverts for day excursions by bus, so perhaps this would be a better alternative than the train – to be followed up later. D did a fine job with phone map taking us to the Mercado San Miguel (just past Sol) but what a scene! No way was it be the fresh produce we were expecting…it turned out to be a sort of multi-provider eatery, with customers standing or sitting on stools shoulder to shoulder snacking on (expensive) small plates & wine/beer. A hasty exit into the adjacent plaza & our first ‘tapas’ venture delivered a vino each with a small bowl of packet chips: we were gobsmacked by the chips, assuming they were the ‘potato’s plazas’ we’d ordered but later a bowl of hot potato wedges covered in a slightly spicy mayo arrived – D at least was satisfied. A ‘not gourmet’ moment, but thankfully we’d managed to get a translation ahead of ordering some huevos that saved us from actually ordering eggs, with potatoes or chorizo on the side!

Somewhat revived, D steered us to the Cathedral de Almudena: no queues here but we’d struck siesta at the crypt. 

Around the corner to the Palacio Real…again, queues, so we peeked at the entrance, bypassed the Royal Art Collection (still siesta) & took in the view over the cypresses (D remembered how the Aussie bloke on yesterday’s Big Bus tour had complained about the cypress gardens blocking the view of the Palace). 

Enough for today, so head back to the metro station Opera. Getting there wasn’t too difficult, but we found ourselves on the wrong train (it was just a shuttle back and forth between two stations, so we hadn’t travelled far) but must have looked like lost sheep for a kind shepherd just stepped in unasked & guided us to a couple of helpful station attendants who explained our mistake.

We needed some essential ingredients for tonight’s self catering, so headed to Carrefour Supermarket, to be again disappointed by not being able to purchase small amounts of garlic or chilies at local supermarkets – if they were even available. Perhaps we’re spoiled by the range and options the big supermarkets give us? Having come across a couple of small vegetable shops on our first night stroll we decided to check them out. The first we came to had exactly what we needed, served by a very accommodating woman, through sign language and guesswork. We were somewhat startled when she produced a significant box of chilies, with much shaking of our heads as we indicated that we wanted just one. With a slight shrug she took one out of the box, and indicated that of course that was understood: no one would buy a whole box. Duh! In addition to getting our produce, we were taken by the range of tomatoes offered – and even more taken by a closed shop we passed on our way home that only sold tomatoes.

Magic moments:

#1 – The chili selection interaction.

#2 – Not so much a single moment, but the kind responses we’ve had so far on this trip from strangers, like the coffee queue and the train interaction today.

Although we have missed out on a number of attractions/points of interest due to renovations or crowds, this hasn’t really spoiled the overall experience. Madrid has been wonderful, an elegant mix of palaces, apartments, monuments, public buildings, fountains, and when we’ve interacted with locals it has invariably been friendly and helpful. Easy to get around, and feeling safe at all times.

Dinner: Chicken Desparado with chilies, asparagus, garlic and coriander, with Los Molinos Tempranillo 2023.

Day 5. Wednesday 12 March.

A good night’s sleep and we awoke to a bright sunny day but with a forecast of rain in the afternoon. After breakfast of gazpacho and Spanish omelette, we decided to make the most of it and take the metro into the Parque del Buen Retiro and perhaps a bit more if the weather was kind. 

The first task after breakfast (and doing the washing) was to manage the Madrid metro system. We walked to the closest subway, Canal, where a very kind assistant, who claimed she had a little English but had quite enough, ran us through the simple process of getting a rechargeable train ticket for 10 rides, after which we caught the #2 line into the Parque and wandered around the gardens for several hours. We. Had planned on visiting the Crystal Palace, but it was closed for renovations until 2027. The Jardines de Cecilia Rodriguez had potential – but the roses were just budding at the start if the season.

We caught sight of the double-decker buses, doing the tours of Madrid, so decided to check it out.

On our way there dropped in to the Museo de Prado, which was showing an El Greco exhibition: it was closed (we think for a temporary break). Then stepped into the Iglesia Parroquial San Jerónimo el Real de Madrid: perfect record, it was closing too! Quickly ushered out by the priest.

There were two tours on the same ticket – as it turned out they cover some of the same ground. As we’ve found in other cities, this was a useful way of getting an overview. After the tours walked into Sol, the main shopping precinct and from there onto the metro to Canal.

At the end of the day after a fair bit of walking (12.6K steps) we caught the train back to our accommodation, picking up some supplies for this evening‘s meal, plus of course a reserve of wine. As it turned out, the weather was kind all day. Very cool here but sunny and no rain.

Magic Moments

1: the bird feeder/ photographer in Retiro

 2: The family exiting their car at the green traffic lights near plaza de Cibele (centre Madrid)…no rush…no pressure – kids, luggage & oops… a couple more bags from the back seat! sang froid (or whatever the equivalent is in Spanish). Other traffic not impressed.

Dinner: Chicken Little Patricio with zucchinis in a sweet red wine jus with a Castillo De Haro Rioja Crianza 2021. (Jus ingredients – cummin, onion, leak, red wine, vinegar, raw sugar, salt, pepper, water, inspiration)

Day 4. Tuesday 11 March.

Not much can be said about 15 hours stuck in an airplane. The food was better than the first leg, so that was a plus. Some sleep, and D watched all of the episodes in Series 2 of Reacher. We were picked up by our pre-arranged taxi and delivered to the apartment. A lot of use of WhatsApp  with the apartment management over payment, access codes, keys, parking, payment….but all very civilized and hence resolved easily. By this time we were totally whacked so decided to do a short loop from the apartment with a small shopping trip (that became just that bit bigger, and not just because of the beer, champagne and red wine). As we were about to enter the very narrow lift a couple joined from next door. We crammed in – both neighbours were tall Americans, and he was huge – over 6.5 feet at least and about as wide in the shoulders: well put together. D made a crack about being in the lift with Reacher: did not get a response. Oops.

Drizzle on and off but not enough to be off putting. 

The afternoon dragged on: “what do you mean it’s only 2 o’clock?” A late walk around the area and a leak and potato soup for supper and then off to bed early – although 7.30 here is 0330 in Australia, so perhaps, until we adjust our body clocks, it was a very late night. Whatever. 

Dinner: Potato and leek soup with baguettes and a Senorio de Los LLanos Tempranillo 2021