Day 15. Saturday 22 March.

Started the day with a short WhatsApp chat with a gang from Canberra.

Then we walked down to the tourist office and received some help, but not really what we were after, which was information on the next province to be visited: they held stuff on Jaen but no others. The very helpful attendant was however able to clarify the long queues of all ages outside a local church we had passed a couple of times yesterday (we think, the Sanctuario Camarillo de Jesus), waiting patiently in sometimes drizzle. She said they were waiting to kiss the feet of Jesus – she said an image, but we assume a statue (that seemed to be confirmed on Google).

Next destination was the Museo Jaen, to get a snapshot of the history of the city.   There was the usual mutual incomprehension between us and the attendant, but always in good humour and in the end some useful communication. It was also free.The museum consists of two sections: archaeology and fine arts, the latter including many religious paintings and variety of other subjects. T rhetorically asked why there are rarely, if ever, paintings of nude men, whereas, like today, there are plenty of female subjects. D could only point to a nearby statue which was undeniably a naked male. And of course the religious art was everywhere.

And a couple not so religious…..but no nudes

On our way to our next stop we paused to watch a wedding party and guests emerge from a church, Parroquia de Cristo Rey, with lots of singing/chanting, cheering and throwing of confetti. Interestingly, the women were pretty much all dressed in a single, vibrant colour (apart from the bride, of course).

Next was the Museo Ibero, an impressive building and even more impressive historical display, with the main two displays having English translations. Again free, and again some eventual partial understanding of the explanations given in Spanish. One of the attendants continued to deliver instructions or advice well after we’d indicated we had no idea what she was talking about: her colleague eventually rolled her eyes, said ‘bueno’ and waved us away.

The first display focused on the various Iberian settlements that inhabited the region’s different territories and how they developed, were conquered and freed over centuries. The second display (unfortunately no translation) was of of ancient money – the As and the Dinari: 70 Dinari, by the way, being the annual salary of a Roman Legionnaire. The third display was  also of artifacts, on the basic theme of mythical ‘heroes’. Again, there were English translations.

Rain had threatened but the short showers have been pretty much while we have been inside: our luck is holding. 🤞

Back home to try to find our next location: one with all the facilities but especially accessible parking. We may be dreaming. But after a couple of hours, and switching to AirBnB, we have found (we think) the perfect place outside a tiny village named Zamoranos. Watch this space.

Dinner: Comforting Chicken soup, salad, bread and Brie.