Day 14. Friday 21 March.

We made it to the Catedral to view the painting of the shroud that has the face of Jesus imprinted. A procession of locals came forward to kiss the icon, while two women recited the Rosary. A seated priest in full regalia also appeared to be saying the Rosary but was seemingly not in the least excited. We were not sure of the protocols: could we take photos (we didn’t) and should we make a donation (we didn’t)? Now not sure whether, after last night’s early departure from the organ concert, that there are now two strikes against us.

But by now being across at least some of the cultural and social norms, we decided to proceed from the viewing to the supermercado to shop, rather than waiting until they are closed. So seemingly, did half of Jaen. I thought the shoppers in Woolies were a hazard: the ones here are legend, but we got out unscathed.

Our next target today was the Castillo de Santa Catalina – no, we are not yet over castles. This involved a drive, so Jose had an outing: it was a bit longer getting there than Google maps indicated, due to missing a few turns, back tracking – Doris up to her tricks. But we made it, with lots of parking in lots of space & the castle cats didn’t blink.

We took the audio tour again, helped along by a very friendly and happy lady in the ticket booth. As well as the historic interest – including what seems to be a pattern of Muslim and Christian occupation of sites – there were great views of Jaen from the castle and the cross. The French had been a bit narky at losing in the 1810-1812 period and had left behind significant destruction, such as poisoning or filling in wells.

After that tour we headed for Alcala la Real, about 36 km away. As we passed a sign to Martos, T said ‘let’s go there’, so we did. It was basically a drive through the town, without a stop. Probably the most significant thing to note were the white houses (and how quiet it was, being the ‘lunch break’ time of day).

So on to Alcala. The vista was remarkable – endless olive groves stretching up mountain sides, often with a castle or church nestling at the top.

For T, the Magic Moment was the landscape: hill after hill of olive terraces…how are they harvested?

Doris must have been listening to an earlier conversation, because she took us to the Castillo de la Mota, overlooking Alcala. We decided not to take the tour, but just wandered around the base.

Forecast rain started as we headed back for Jaen, trusting Doris to do the right thing. Did she? No way. We were directed to a parking spot, and told we’d have to walk the rest of the way! Fortunately D has remembered the host’s arrival instructions, and some of the roads we have driven on when a bit lost, so we were able to get back. Unfortunately, on one of the very tight turns (we had been warned) Jose suffered a slight scrape on the bumper bar. Bummer.

Dinner. Pork loin, seared and baked, with baked potatoes and carrots and pan fried broccolini, with a Vina Albali Tempranillo Roble 2023.

Something learned today: A Roble is a young wine with a light touch of oak aging retaining the appeal of young wines but also having a hint of oak that makes it smoother and slightly more complex.